GDWT306V00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The parts came really fast, I did not even have time to think about them...when they came I was like what? They are here? WOW! anyway, I just changed the wheels with the new axel and perfect! now it works wonderful...and it was so easy! I can't believe I dealt with that for as long as I did.

took out broken wheel axel and replaced it with a new one

I removed what few remaining wheel assemblies there were - just pulled them off - no tools needed. Then I assembled the new wheels and wheel axels and simply snapped them on to the lower rack! It was a piece of cake.

It only took 10 minutes and they had the right parts and I got them in 2 days. I am ashamed to say that I let this go for a couple of months and for about $20 and 10 minues, I was able to take care of the the issue. The3 wife is thrilled.

Took less than 5 mins. To replace rollers and lower rack without tools. My life should be this easy.

Remove bottom articulating sprayer and water fittings. Remove and replace filter

Easy to install - there has been a modification of the axel since original which will make it last longer. 15 Secods to install.

The wheels on the lower wash rack had fallen off. I had tried to re-install them, but they kept coming off. I ordered new ones and they came very quickly. I removed the old wheels and studs and replaced them with the new ones. (make sure you order studs because these are the parts that failed) The new studs have a design change and should last much longer than the original.

The new wheels simply snap onto the new studs, and the whole assembly snaps onto the wire "axle" on the wash rack. It's a simple fix, and well worth the few dollars it cost to buy them.

Less than 15 mins

Pulled the bottom rack out. Took the back wheel out on the right side which was disfigured because it must have touch the heating coils. Examined the other 7 wheels and they appeared to be in good shape. I put the axile thru the center of the wheel and forced it on the rack-rod. It seemed to click into place. I put the lower rack in the dishwasher and it went smoothly back and forth. I have a spare just in case this happens again.

Replaced worn wheels with new ones from your company. After months of wrangling with the dishwasher peace reigns in the kitchen. Great service. Told all my neighbors about PartsSelect.

just removed the bottom rack--put wheels on axles and put them in the proper places on the bottom rack-- threw out the old ones--went from 'hating' the dishwasher to saying 'thank you, thank you' and loving it!

Place the roller and axle together first; then fasten the set to the rack itself. These instructions were not given, and so the rollers do not fit as good as they should. I think I'll be able to correct it, though.

Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.

The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.

Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.

Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.

That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.

The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.

Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.

I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!