PSKS333EB3WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. The center of the gasket is marked to agree the the tub center.l. The seal just pulls out so I removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the Top center and working down to. the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. It took longer to clean the channel and door than to install the gasket.

Disconnect main water line from behind refrigerator
Remove bottom panel from refrigerator
Disconnect hose from water valve
Remove metal hose guard from top left of refrigerator Carefully remove plumbers putty from around filter hose (you will be reinstalling this putty around new hose assembly)
Inside refrigerator remove MWF water filter and guard, and then remove two screws holding filter assembly in place (this requires socket set with 4” extension bar)
Carefully pull filter hose assembly towards you from front of refrigerator. Once assembly is out remove Styrofoam cover from old assembly and install on new assembly
To reassemble, simply follow this process in reverse. Good luck

I removed the old shelf and installed the new one!

Turn off water .Remove 4 screws holding lower front panels.Remove panels, valve is on left . Remove 2 screws that hold valve , slip valve up over clip. Using pliers slide clamp back, remove hose from valve.disconnect wire clip , unscrew from water fill line. Install new valve in the reverse order

Followed the video showing how it was done. Took me longer to go to the basement and shut the water off and on, than it did to replace the valve

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

First of all the part I ordered came a lot sooner than expected.
I thought it would take 5 to 10 days.
I ordered it on a Tuesday and it was at my door on Thursday.
The part was difficult to take off as this was the first time I attempted this.
When the new part came, I saw that I went to too much trouble to take the old one off.
It was installed in about 40 minutes and we were off and running.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Only tool I used was 1/4 inch socket. Using the 1/4 inch socket, the screws were removed from the panel covering the control board. (this is on the back in the lower right corner). When this panel is off you are looking at the control board. Next remove all the plug in connectors. Don't worry about remembering where they go. They all are different and can only go in their specific place. After removing the connectors, pull the board out. Replace the plug in connectors before putting the new board back in , then snap the board back into place.(held in by four pins). Replace the cover.

We actually followed the instructions of the video for the installation of the dual inlet valve and it was incredibly easy to perform. The fridge works perfect again!

The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refrigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explanation. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call.