PSKS333EB3WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

Detached the dishwasher from the cabinet. Slid it out. Removed small guide wheel that the cable went through. Removed the old broken cable. Replaced with new cable. Replaced the guide wheel. Hooked the cable to the door. Hooked the other end to the spring and hooked the spring to the body of the dishwasher. Put some WD40 on the the cable guide. Slide the dishwasher back under the counter and attached it to the cabinets. All done.

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.

I first replaced in-line water filter to the fridge. No ice. Then I replaced the water filter inside the fridge. Still no ice. I inspected the water inlet feeding the ice cube trays and it was froze up with ice. I removed the two screws holding the ice maker in place to remove the ice from the inlet tray. I then used a hair dryer to melt the ice accumulated in the in-coming water tube. Turned off the water and unplugged the fridge. When replacing the old water valve, I first blew through the hose feeding the ice maker to be sure that it was clear of ice. After re-attaching the water hoses and the electrical connections, I turned on the water, plugged in the fridge and turned the ice maker switch back on. Next morning I had ice cubes. Only mystery is I am not hearing the usual water noise when water is feeding the cube tray like I did before, - not to worry though if it works. My drawer is now full of cubes.

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

Searched dryer model on Google, found partselect.com. Searched for Dryer model and a diagram of the dryer with all its parts appeared. Selected the timer knob on the diagram and it took me to the part, ordered it.
All steps took less than 10 minutes, and I had the new knob in my hands the next day and installed in about 3 minutes.
You saved a few dollars, plus not having to miss time from work waiting for a repair man.
Thank you!
Rocio

We removed the remaining rollers, inserted the studs into the rollers and attached to the lower rack. Easy. I can't believe we put up with this for so long. We appreciate your quick service. So much easier than going shopping and waiting for the parts to come in and then having to go pick them up. Thanks for being there.