ADB1500AWS3 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

1. Shut off water supply

- Remove water line and drain hose if you need to. I was able to simply move the dishwasher forward some to do this repair without disconnecting

2. Remove access panels on the bottom.
3. Open the door
4. Remove Door Gasket carefully (do not stretch)
5. Use torque 20 driver to remove 6 screws that were under the gasket

- Some of the screws were rusted for me so I had to use kroil, a pick to clean out rust, and a hammer to help get the torque driver in enough to remove the screws. A local hardware store had replacements.

6. Use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws holding mounting brackets
7. Carefully move dishwasher out some (Careful if you have a copper water hose you may want to disconnect it)
8. Remove the strike if it is attached above the metal bar
9. Lift the metal bar and push down on the tub to make room to remove the old mounting brackets (slide them up, forward, and to the side)
10. Put new mounting brackets in place (put mounting bracket under bar, slide over into place)
11. Reverse the order at this point.

Be careful not to stretch the gasket. I soaked mine in vinegar for a bit and gently washed with dish soap to remove deposits.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

Dishwasher is in our summer cabin in Colorado so everything has to be drained for the winter. Not really sure whether this leak was freeze caused or that the valve was just old. Couldn't find a crack when I got the old one apart; might have been just an O ring needed. Anyway, just follow the video provided by this site for replacement of the valve; really easy. Biggest hassle for us was getting the dishwasher out (and back in) as it was wrapped in insulation which made the fit really tight. Thought I had everything I needed when I started but didn't have teflon tape which is needed for the brass fitting connecting the water supply to the valve (fitting is in your old valve and will be reused with the new one).

followed video provided,simple job and cured problem

This couldn't have been easier. After unsnapping the docking station from the dishwasher, I aligned the two flapper valves that come with the unit and pressed them into place. I then pushed the new unit into place by pushing first on the left side and then the right until it clicked into place.
I looked at the old one and found that one flapper was gone and the gaskets were deteriorated. What made the whole process easier was buying from PartSelect. I have bought from them before and will again.

I removed the screws from inner door panel.The 2 top screws also hold the latch assembly in place.I then lifted the panel, removed latch assembly, unplugged the 2 wires ,then installed new part in reverse order. Reinstalled screws in inner panel. Oh yes,first turn off power first at breaker box.

Pulled out the dishwasher and disconnected two power wires to heater, turned off the two hold-down nuts and removed old heater. I then installed the new heater in reverse.

The repair was simple. My husband replaced the panel in about 30 minutes. The dishwasher looks brand new and updated and it saved us about $600.

First, turn the power off to the dishwasher. Then removed several screws that hold the panel in place. These are mostly on the side of the panel door. I then pulled the old panel and put the new one in.

Used utube to replace the inner seal. Did not stop the leak completely, had to replace the entire door seal and level the machine.I did the inner seal myself, but had a repairman under our homeowner warranty do the rest.