CCR467B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).

Remove three screws underneath bottom front edge of the range top. Bewteen the oven door and the range top. Lift rnage top up in frotn and prop up. Remove two screws o the element and replace. Found out the problems was not the element but the control switch. The heating element for the bimetalic control was brokened and not making contact. Element was ok. Would advise inspecting and using a dvm to check resistance of the element before purchasiing. By the way I swapped the control switch from another element and found out that they are claibrated to the sixe of the element. You have to purchase the right control switch or the element will not heat correctly.

Replaced the control.

Changed out surface burner switch.Unscrewed two screws, changed plug onto new switch.Don't forget to turn off power!

It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.

Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.

Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.

Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.

switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions