CCR467B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

pull and push

First I reviewed a video on YouTube by this site. Even though the range on the video was not the same as mind, it gave me an idea on what to do. I proceeded to pull the rang out from the wall and disconnected the power plug. Next I removed two screws from the back located on the left and used a flat blade screw driver to depress two brackets on the front to release the glass top panel. I unplugged the wiring harness and disconnected the grounding wire and took the glass panel off and laid it upside down on the kitchen table. I removed the old heating element first by unplugging the wiring and removing the brackets that held it in place. Installed the new one, plugged in all wirings, brackets, screws and replace the top back on the stove.

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

The front burner the large one was burnt out, I cook alot so I need it, I happen to see a appliance repair man next door. I describe problem and he said well figure about 250 - 300 hundred dollars. 80 For the aprt the rest labor and house call. Well I looked at the booklet and figured out what I had to do ,needless to say I owent to your website and you had the exact part I needed and saved me alot of money. I sugest to d. I. Yers try it and if it doesn't work then call the repairman. Thank you parts select. Glenn voight

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

first removed 3 screws in front of the range then lift up the top glass and removed 1 screw that is holding the element and then disconnect the wires that are connect on the element then put the new element on place and wired it test it and works good

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.