Drum Support Roller

It was very easy to installed new parts.

Idler Lever was obviously totally gone and causing most of the noise. Videos are excellent. Just follow them carefully.

I knew right away that some rollers were bad. So, I decided to do a total "rebuild" while I had the dryer apart. I.e., any part pertaining to movement of the drum. So, I replaced the 2 rear rollers, idler pulley, front glides and drum drive belt. Why not? You're already in there - just do it all, and you're good for maybe another 10 years. One thing they don't tell you in the videos, but you really should do; add some grease to the shafts for the rear rollers and on the shoulder bolt that holds the idler pulley in place. Don't "slather" it in there; I used a wooden toothpick to put a small amount for the roller shafts and shoulder bolt. It's best to use something that can stand high heat. I used STL Pipe Thread grease; but any good, high-heat grease will do. Also, take the time to vacuum out the inside of the dryer, and ALL air paths. Especially the front Lint Duct Assembly. Mine was so full of lint, it was almost blocking the blower wheel. It was so packed, it was mostly blocking the thermal limit switch!!. That could cause the dryer to over heat, and catch all that lint on fire. Clean it good, and it'll take less running time to dry your clothes. I could tell the difference.

Followed the online repair demonstration videos. Lifted the top using putty knife to release: slid in between top panel and front panel. There is one on the left and one on the right. (Press toward back of dryer and lift lightly on the top for each side, releasing both sides and lift up. Rest on wall behind dryer). Photographed wires before disconnecting. Used nut driver to unscrew the front panel,one screw on each side. Lifted and pulled, and removed. Did the same for the inner part that holds the front of the drum. Four screws total there. Removed the drum by first reaching in under the drum and freeing the belt from the pulley, then pulling drum straight forward. Removed and replaced idler pulley with crescent wrench and socket. Removed and replaced drum rollers using snap ring pliers (these were only slightly worn, but ordered and replaced anyway since they were affordable) and added a little machine oil for good measure. Returned the drum, then put on new belt (using the video to be sure of correct placement and installation) and reassembled dryer, referring to the pics I took of the wires. Works like brand new now! Loved the videos! Very easy to follow!

As per your video

Having repaired it before, I knew what it needed. ordered all new rollers and because of age a new drive belt. Needed a new door switch, had bypassed it a while ago. finding the parts on the site was a snap, great setup. FIRST, DISCONNECT THE POWER!!! VERY EASY FIX. Lean the unit against the wall at about 30-40 degrees and start removing the screws from the bottom and lift each panel off by pivoting. Take care when removing door frame, unplug the wires. Remove drive belt before removing the drum. Check roller shafts for excessive wear or just replace them with the rollers. make sure you put the spacer back behind the rollers and the rollers facing the right way. Use caution with the felt drum sealers when replacing the drum and the door frame. CLEAN OUT THE LINT BUILDUP WHILE YOU HAVE IT APART. VAC THE MOTOR CLEAN TO PREVENT OVERHEATING.

Removed eight ?" screws (8A X 3/8 Hex Washer Head Tapping) starting with two at bottom kick panel, then two at dryer door panel; disconnect electrical connectors to release door panel from dryer body; remove four screws from dryer opening bulkhead to expose drum and blower impeller; remove two screws securing top dryer panel to side panels; reach inside right lower access to release dryer belt from idler wheel; lift top panel a little while pulling out bulky drum. Vacuum the heck out of the inside. Even better, do all this outside and take compressed air to the inside. Because this dryer was 19 years old, all three rollers (drum, idler wheel), guides (2), felts(2), and belt were replaced. The noise was caused by seized rollers but all rubber on rollers and belt was cracking, so best to change such old worn out parts. Don't forget to lube all shafts with oil (plumbers silicone best), then reassemble...js

Best thing was to tape belt in place on the drum prior to putting back in place, after belt pulley was connected tape was removed. Much easier than trying to install the belt after drum installed.

I followed the video instructions and the replacement of the parts was pretty simple. NIce instruction video. The guy is an artist. Thanks.

followed yor videos ,they were perfect ,thank you