MEDB835DC4 Whirlpool - Instructions

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you

Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen connection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.

I ordered the dryer repair kit and to my surprise it arrived 4 days early. I followed the video instructions on the parts select website to replace 4 rollers, belt and belt pulley. A 1/4 in nut driver attached to my Dewalt drill made life ALOT easier!! My recommendation, when you remove the rollers, take a rag and really clean up the shaft they ride on. Then apply a lightweight spray oil to the shafts. When you install the new rollers they will spin free and easy. Having the dryer apart is also a great time to break out the dust buster of vacuum. Spin the fan motor up front by hand and use vacuum to remove lint or belt shaving from inside the cabinet. Add this step as good fire prevention measure.

We watched the video at whirlpool.com! Made it so simple anyone could have done it!

BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE UNPLUG THE POWER AND TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY 1. unscrew the 3 nut screws at the back to remove the cover lid. 2. pull the control console cable from the electronic board. (only 3 wires on it).3. unscrew the 2 nut screws of the control console then remove it by pulling up.4. unscrew the 5 screws to remove the door. (pull little up to unhinged then remove). 6. unscrew the 5 nut screws to remove the lower siding. 7. unscrew the copper 4 nut screws then remove the lint suction fixture 8. unscrew the 4 nut screws to remove door fixture ,then just lay next to the machine.(the wires are long enough so you don't need to unplug and separate it from the machine.9. remove the belt by pulling the idler pulley towards the motor pulley (against the tension spring) 10. remove the drum by lifting a little bit upward. 11. remove the plastic triangular lock using a small screw driver then remove the idler pulley wheel then install the replacement. (clean your machine using a vacuum cleaner and remove all the lints). 12. install back the drum, be sure to set the drum belt to the right position. (groove on drum side). 13. install back the belt to the pulley the same procedure as to remove it. 14. assemble back what you have removed. end.

By watching the video it made the job much easier than I thought it would be. I was very pleased with the speedy delivery of the Dryer kit I had ordered. I had called a local repair facility and they wanted twice as much for the same parts.

I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

unplugged from elect power.took off front lower panel.removed heater heat shield w/1/4 in nut driver,could see heat element. it looks like at thin metal twisted phone cord. i used a continuity tester to establish if there was a break in it. there was. i removed 2 1/4in screws on the right side of the element,marked wire placement slid out old element & slid in new one put screws back in connected wires,put heat shield back on . tested dryer ,ok good to go put on front cover.!!!!! PS sears parts wanted 15$ more