MEDB835DC4 Whirlpool - Instructions

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

I followed the video provided by ‘Partselect’; although it was not the exact model it was close enough to get the job done with high confidence.

A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.

Just follow the repair video, it was easy!

I just took the old element replaced with the new one i order from this site, I save some money was really easy so proud of my self...

1.Removed lower dryer cover - two screws. 2.Tested heating element circuit including high temp cutoff, - Heating element circuit was "open" so I first tested the heating element - "open" so I removed one screw on the side and removed the element - element broken. 3.Ordered the part - good price and the deliver was great, three days. 4. Cleaned any lint up and Installed the new heating element and front panel 5. Heated right up - probably saved myself a good $100 for less than thirty minutes of work!!!!

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

Replaced power cord, terminal block, and all melted wiring. Checked the thermal fuse for zero resistance.

The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and remove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

I researched causes of the noise, zeroed it down to the idler pulley. I then got the dryer schematic and took the dryer apart after disconnecting the power and the vent. i did not have to remove the drum, the idler pulley was easily accessible once the top and back panels were removed. I simply removed the drive belt from tension off the pulley, removed the old pulley and installed the new one. Once finished the dryer was running whisper quiet.

Followed the instructions all went good except for the sliding the shield back in it didn't want to go back in but it does fit. Dryer works like new again.

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.