WTW8100BW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

Repair was pretty straight forward with the exception of removing the agitator. Hint, do not force it, just continue to work it until it releases. Problem was not entirely corrected, but improved.

Follow step by step YouTube channel for this.

followed repair manual for code f51.ordered/replaced Rotor Position Sensor {RPS} disconnected and reconnected wiring harness at computer module and then put everything back together and that took care of the problem, It;s been working good since. that sensor was delivered the very next day. that was great. thank you

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

This is an easy one. Snap off the agitator cap with a screwdriver.
Remove the single but and agitator.
Remove 6 phillips head screws.
Lubricate the bearing and coax it off the spindle.

I removed the two hinges in the lid by unscrewing them from the lid and sliding them out from the underside of the lid. I also needed to replace the hinge assembly in the washer body on the left side. I unscrewed the three screws in the back of the controls module and lifted the cover off. I unscrewed the furthest forward and left screw that went down to the hinge assembly. I then removed the trim ring around the bleach pour spout and unclipped the bleach hopper from the lid. Next I unlatched the lid assembly with a metal putty knife. Once inside I moved the bleach hopper out of the way and gained access to the left side hinge assembly. I removed the other screw holding the hinge in place and changed out the hinge assembly. I then worked backwards putting screws and pieces back in place. Finally, I installed new door hinge pins in the left and right sides to reattach the lid.

The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.

This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.

Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.

Repair is straight-forward. Thanks!

I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.

Notice Basket Hub replacement video and application was straight forward.
Suspension Rod Kit was a little more time consuming, video are ok, but
don't rely on video along. Removing top of appliance check and recheck
rear of appliance for attachments screw prior to trying to remove top.

It is good to watch a video on how to!
Most went well, like all repairs, there are surprises, that make It take longer than expected. Once I put it back together and ran it, there was a UL code. After reading more posts, I found UL is unbalanced. After reading more… one of the problems could be the hub on the bottom may be loose. I checked that. Yep the hex bolt was loose. I forgot to put lock tight on it. Fixed that and ran it, worked flawlessly.
It would be nice to have install instructions in the box. Otherwise watch videos.

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you