7MWTW1805DM0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- john from RAY CITY, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10072840, WP3363661, 80040, 285587
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Would not agitate
Exactly as shown in your video
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- Customer:
- Charles from SEALY, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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- Customer:
- David from NICHOLASVILLE, KY
- Parts Used:
- 285565
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
The plastic teeth on the inside of the large agitator stripped out.
I needed an air impact wrench to remove the single nut. It was stuck on there. Once the Nut. Was removed it was an easy repair. Perfect fit! Just pop it on the shaft and replace the bolt. Since I had my air tools out already I gave it a couple of dugga duggas.
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- Customer:
- David from BELMONT, MI
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Lid lock/latch stuck closed
Watched a video
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- Customer:
- Bernard from ARIZONA CITY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Gear stripped on main spline
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Hyannis, MA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10072840, 80040
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Top section of agitator would not spin.
Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]
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- Customer:
- Joseph from BAKER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loose pulley
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- William from Nashua, NH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10072840, WP3348752, 285811
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Not spinning clothes at top of load
I removed dispenser for softener, then pulled cap inside upper agitator, I was able to get my fingers in the grips and pull firmly to unseat it. (disgard o-ring it comes with the repair kit). I then removed the bolt from center and grabbed the bottom of the lower agitator and gave it a good tug to release the whole unit. If that don't work you can get a flat tip screwdriver between the two sections and pry up slightly. Once it was all loose I removed the upper assembly taking care to to remember how all the pieces were assembled. replaced everything in the same order and when it came time to reinstall the inner cap and seal I made sure I put the cap in straight. Also if the seal doesn't cooperate you can use a little liquid soap to lubricate it. you dont want to use grease because it could possibly get on the clothes (the softener sits in there)! You can use the tip of the screwdriver to tuck the oring in if that doesn't work but be very careful
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- Customer:
- Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
heavy loads did not spin dry properly
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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- Customer:
- Dan from BLOOMINGTON, IL
- Parts Used:
- 285811
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Top part of agitator was not agitating clothes.
Took off water softener from top of agitator. Pulled up and removed cap with O-ring that covered bolt that held agitator in place.then pulled briskly up on entire agitator from the bottom to remove agitator from machine.After that I put my feet on bottom of agitator and then pulled up on top part to separate the two pieces. After that just follow instruction sheets for parts replacement and then reverse steps to reassemble.
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- Customer:
- pierre from e greenwich, RI
- Parts Used:
- 285811
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
cams chewed up
popped off softener cap, easy. Pulled out clear plastic sealer, removed nut holding agitator in, pulled out agitator. Removed cam holder, new cam bearing etc in, reverse removal done, piece of cake.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Centreville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10072840, 285811, 285587
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
agitator was not moving
was really simple like others before me described. Removed cap to excess recessed bolt. Once that was out of the way pulled up gently on agitator and disassembled the agitator from base. Actually repair only took about 8 minutes. Working like new again and that keeps everybody happy! Thanks again.
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- Customer:
- Kenny from JACKSON, CA
- Parts Used:
- 285565
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Top auger of the agitator assembly did not work due to worn out cogs in the top bushing
I removed the softener cup from the top of the agitator unit. The auger works separately from the bottom agitator. Remove the cap from down in the auger. There is a 7/16" bolt that holds the Auger and agitator to the center shaft. Loosen that bolt with a 7/16" socket on an extension from the ratchet wrench, and remove it from the bushing- I used a magnet. You will need to hold the agitator to loosen the bolt. Save that bolt. You will need it later. The entire agitator and auger can be lifted as a unit straight up out of the washer tub. There is a plastic bushing in the replacement kit. Slide it down over the center shaft with the small tabs up, then apply some Vaseline to the tabs as a lubricant. The new agitator can now be slipped down over the center shaft and seated on the bushing. Place the top auger onto the shaft down on to the agitator. Next, assemble the top bushing by placing the four cogs into the slots with the small pegs. The cogs must have the side with the raised area on the top of the assembly. Next push the plastic keeper down over the center of the bushing to hold the cogs in place and push it down to secure the cogs. Place this assembly into center shaft and line up the four rectangular holes in the top bushing with the four plastic prongs below. The top bushing assembly may be pushed down and secured by the four upright pegs below. If there are plastic tabs obstructing the rectangular holes in the top bushing , you can put the bolt back into the center hole and carefully tighten it down making sure the four holes align with the four pegs below. Tighten until the top bushing is securely in place. You will need to hold the lower agitator while you tighten the bolt with the socket wrench. Replace cap over the top bushing, then the softener cup into the top of the agitator assembly. The job is complete.
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