7MGHW9400PW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

Just removed two screws with a phillips screwdriver and screwed the new handle on. Super simple

Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the inside. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

First, I unscrewed the two screws on the broken handle, using an allen wrench. Then, I screwed on the new handle in it's place. The new grey handle is much lighter in color than the original charcoal grey of the washer, but it blends well and works perfectly.

the old handle was held in place with two screws.
the screws were removed, handle came off right away and then the new handle was place on the door and the screws were replaced.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.