MWFW8500SR02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.

Perfect part...saved me hundreds on labor. Thanks!

Got parts in mail. The new parts seem to be better than originals. Remove bottom front access panel to reach shocks. Revove nuts and bolts from bottom mount. Then remove any existing pieces from top mount. Twist in new shocks at top (this part was why I put the bit difficult. Sme were hard to twist.),then pull down and put bolt back in bottom mount and tighten back up. re-install front cover and clean up.

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

Just follow the repair video and you are good to go. Very easy my 16yr old did it.

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

Unplug Unit, remove lower cover screws with screwdriver that has 1/4 drive at end, put 2 gallon bucket at strainer remove water. Remove inlet hose clamp and outlet hose clamp, disconnect pump motor wiring plug, aggressive push to RIGHT popped right out. put a dab of Vaseline on new units rubber base slide back in reverse order. Plugged in check for leaks put back together, Repair took less than 15 minutes, working great! WHAT I FOUND IN STRAINER: LEGO'S-CHANGE-PAPER CLIPS, enough things to destroy the impeller !

Well first of all when you buy this washer, the salesperson should tell you about checking the drain catch (ahead of the pump) and emptying out whatever get's caught in there. Never had a clue until it wouldn't work, then did a search on the internet, and darn if I didn't find specific instructions on how to open and clean out. Mine was packed full of hair pins, small change, lint, buttons, etc, all kinds of stuff. Guessing that is why the pump went out in the first place, it was so packed full that the pump could not draw any water through. But even after I cleaned it out, the pump was already shot. So called a service man, he said the pump would cost me around $200, then his labor to put it in, plus a $68 service call to just come and look at it, and $68 when he comes back to replace it. So I searched the internet for how to replace, came up with a very detailed You Tube video on how to replace Whirlpool Duet Pump. So ordered my pump from PartsSelect, just over $100, and replaced it myself. Super easy, only about 5 minutes. Thanks! —A very determined housewife!

Replace water pump

Took of the panel, unscrewed the old drain, screwed the new drain in. Very very simple to do! The first part I received leaked, I called customer service and they gave me a refund and express shipped a new part - no questions asked. Very good customer service!

unplug washer from outlet carefully tilt back to get at underside of washer remove bottom panel. pump location lower right front. remove two hoses from back using pliers keep note on hose location. remove two bolts on underside of machine slide pump to the right to release from rubber holders to install reverse the process also good idea to use the new hose clamps that come with your new pump and the rubber mounts if they are included