7MGHW9100MW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

First I removed the two screws that held the old handle and then replaced the new handle with the same screws.

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

Repair was described as a simple 5 minute job following the enclosed directions. There were no directions included. Customer service replied they could not provide any instructions. I located a technical manual online and determined the steps necessary to replace the baffles. While some may just click them in, a proper repair requires the control pannel and machine housing to be removed. Then the tub assembly must be removed and the plastic tub separated from the basket. Three screws (one for each baffle must be installed. (I recommend using blue loctite to keep the screws from backing out). The entire process must then be reversed. This is a slightly complicated (note the pencil is to mark the locations of clips for ease of reinstallation. I am an Engineer and this process took over 2 hours and required a significant amount of space to lay out the parts as the machine was totally disassembled. This assembly is best accomplished with 2 people and an entire afternoon without interruption. It can be done by anyone with some mechanical skills, but find the consumer services technical manual first and be prepared to keep track of a lot of small and large parts. This is not the simple 5 minute job described by others (unless you just want to snap the baffles on the basket and not lock them down). In that case go ahead and order a few more sets as the clips will break and the baffles will slide off and you will be replacing them about every 6 months.

The baffle just slipped on with no tools required. The best thing was that we received our parts the next day after ordering them, and we just paid for regular shipping!

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

First, I unscrewed the two screws on the broken handle, using an allen wrench. Then, I screwed on the new handle in it's place. The new grey handle is much lighter in color than the original charcoal grey of the washer, but it blends well and works perfectly.

the old handle was held in place with two screws.
the screws were removed, handle came off right away and then the new handle was place on the door and the screws were replaced.

Remive 3 screws along bottom front panel and remove that by pulling down and off. Remove 4 screws from the back of washer along the top to remove top cover. Pull out dispenser tray. Remove 2 screws from along dispenser, then carefully remove the control panel by inserting a screwdriver to release internal clips along the top. Put the control panel on top of the washer. This gives you access to 2 more screws at the top, and also 2 screws on the bottom, that will release the door panel. You'll have to disconnect 3 wire connections to get access to the wide rubber gasket (bellow). There is an inner ring and an outer ring holding it in place. The outer ring is a spring. Pull that off. Then remove the inner by loosening the screw holding the clamp. Pull the bellow off and replace with the new one. Make sure the gasket goes completely over the large water spout and the smaller button sprayer at the top taking caution to have the gasket sit between the two plastic washers attached to it. Make sure the belllow is firmly seated inside and out before attaching the bellow. Reattach everything in reverse order. Problems you'll run into: getting the spring on the outer gasket as it is tight to get on and the rubber will keep slipping off the edge where it is seated. Also, you may need an extra pair of hands to hold the door up while you attach those wire connections as there is no play in the wires.

As easy as 123 two torx screws removed old pieces and install the new one and like that ready for another 15 years.