WTW57ESVW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Turn washer on its side unscrewed clamps used pliers to slide clamps off of two hoses connected to pump then took clips off that hold pump replaced with new pump and put new clips connected hoses and clamps on new pump turned it back upright job finished

just like video showed really helpfull

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

1. Remove Top Cap.
2. Remove Seal Cap.
3. Remove 7/16 Bolt
4. Lift out Old Agitator
5. Put in NEW Agitator
6. Replace 7/16 Bolt
7. Replace Seal Cap
8. Replace Top Cap.
9. Sit back and enjoy your clean clothes

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

the first order was ordered wrong for me and the part was to big so I had to send it back and order another. The second dispenser was the right one and went on well to the machine. Just had to put it on the machine by hand.

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Replaced motor starting capacitor. Noticed water leak at pump and replaced pump

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!

First I removed the fabric softener dispenser. I removed the inner cap seal and agitator retaining bolt. Then I firmly pulled up on the agitator to remove the complete agitator assembly. I replaced the inner cap seal and installed the new agitator bolt with rubber washer. I placed the new agitator assembly on the drive shaft and tightened the bolt. Lastly I installed the inner seal and the fabric softener dispenser. The total time spent was around 10 minutes.

Following the video that was supplied with my order was super helpful. Watching it though made the job seem very easy of which it really wasn't. My washer is about 6 years old so it had a LOT of build up on EVERYTHING making the disassembly harder than you may think. Once apart I needed to really scrub everything clean before reassembly as well. Getting the tub off without cracking it was a challenge for sure. Eventually rocking it and adding a bit of WD-40 to the shaft if eventually came off. Once it was off I was able to replace the Tub Wear Pads quite easily. Getting to it was the challenge. Installing new wear pads and new suspension springs fixed the problem. Once I had the casing back together I replaced the agitator cam set as well. I figured as long as I already had it apart why not be proactive and fix the next to fail and boy am I glad I did. Once I had it out it just fell apart in my hands with the cams showing almost no ribs at all left to latch onto.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.