WFW9300VU02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

This was so easy to swap the parts out. The plastic hooks that hold the pieces inside our washer had just worn out. We put our washer and dryer through LOTS of use and I am amazed it has hold on this long! The broken piece just popped out and the new piece just snapped right in. Thank you for your speedy shipping and the great price.

It took less time to repair than it took to get new baffle out of the packing sleeve. Set it in drum and snapped it in place. Took about 5 seconds.

I did not replace the pump body. I just removed the motor with the 3 screws. Put the new one on. This way I did not need to mess with the hose clamps.

It took me a minute to put the baffle in place. The piece got here in one day. I would order again from here if I ever need any parts for any of my appliances. Thanks Anne B.

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

Disconnected the water supply lines. Removed four screws holding the top to back frame. Removed the top. Disconnected the electrical valve connections. Removed the valve set mounting screw. Removed the valve set and replaced. Reversed the steps above for installation.

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

Did it myself, found the model # from your website, received the part, it slid right on,yay, no more tears in my sheets!

Very simple repair. Lined up the baffle tabs with the drum slots. Pushed the tabs into the slots, pulled the drum baffle towards the opening of the wahser until it seated. You will hear aclick.

Very simple repair had to remove door from Washer, loosen the seals so that I could remove the old hinge. Inserted new hinge place the door and hinge on brackets and tightened the screws. I was very pleased with the fast action in getting me my parts, less than 24 hours.Thank You.

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.