3RLSQ8033SW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Watching videos identified what parts to purchase.
Once identified - WATCH EACH PARTS VIDEO (again).
Lessons learned:
1) better to NOT tilt the washer
2) watch (more than once) and learn from the videos
3) must difficult step was loosening the tub retaining nut without having a spanner wrench (used a hammer and a short / wide blade screwdriver)
4) ended up being the tub support was not sitting properly in the suspension plate
5) cleaned and changed parts while apart
6) running as good as new

Thanks!!

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

I removed the softener cup from the top of the agitator unit. The auger works separately from the bottom agitator. Remove the cap from down in the auger. There is a 7/16" bolt that holds the Auger and agitator to the center shaft. Loosen that bolt with a 7/16" socket on an extension from the ratchet wrench, and remove it from the bushing- I used a magnet. You will need to hold the agitator to loosen the bolt. Save that bolt. You will need it later. The entire agitator and auger can be lifted as a unit straight up out of the washer tub. There is a plastic bushing in the replacement kit. Slide it down over the center shaft with the small tabs up, then apply some Vaseline to the tabs as a lubricant. The new agitator can now be slipped down over the center shaft and seated on the bushing. Place the top auger onto the shaft down on to the agitator. Next, assemble the top bushing by placing the four cogs into the slots with the small pegs. The cogs must have the side with the raised area on the top of the assembly. Next push the plastic keeper down over the center of the bushing to hold the cogs in place and push it down to secure the cogs. Place this assembly into center shaft and line up the four rectangular holes in the top bushing with the four plastic prongs below. The top bushing assembly may be pushed down and secured by the four upright pegs below. If there are plastic tabs obstructing the rectangular holes in the top bushing , you can put the bolt back into the center hole and carefully tighten it down making sure the four holes align with the four pegs below. Tighten until the top bushing is securely in place. You will need to hold the lower agitator while you tighten the bolt with the socket wrench. Replace cap over the top bushing, then the softener cup into the top of the agitator assembly. The job is complete.

Unplug the washer. Used flat blade screwdriver under each end of the control housing on top of the machine. This popped the spring clips and allowed the control housing to be lifted up and rotated out of the way. Once out of the way, lift clip on wiring harness to lid switch, then pull the harness off. Use nutdriver to remove screw holding ground wire in place. Open lid of the machine. Pinch tab on back of the lid switch and rotate the switch up and out of the machine. Insert the new switch in the same manner, making sure that the machine lid remains open until the switch snaps into place. Attach ground wire using screw removed earlier and nutdriver. Clip wiring harness back in place. Close the lid and then rotate the control housing downward, and press on both ends to re-engage the spring clips which hold it down.

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

Pushed the new one into place. No tools, no fuss and very little swearing involved. Clogg was caused by erroneously pouring the liquid detergent into the very handy opening reserved for fabric softener. I'd love to say my wife did that, but.... no, it was me. NOW, the real story. I ordered the part via the web at 10:00 a.m. It was delivered to me at 9:30 a.m. the next morning via Fed Ex. Wow! Great job at PartSelect.

unplug washer. -remove two phillips head screws and two nut head screws holding control panel. -lift up control panel. -remove nut head screw on ground wire of switch. -release and remove switch. - put in new switch. - connect ground wire. -replace control panel and screws. -plug in washer. (depending on location of your washer move it to gain access to screws on back of control panel.- once done move washer back.)

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

First I pulled the liquid softener dispenser from the top of the agitator. Then I pulled (also by hand) the cover that was beneath it. That revealed the bolt holding the agitator in place. I loosened this with a socket set and removed it. The old Cam-Agit, which was stripped, popped out and the new one popped in. I then reassembled everything in reverse order and was done in approximately 5 minutes. The agitator works great now and we are no longer getting clumps of powder detergent in the clothes from lack of agitation.

I removed the softener cup, unscrewed the bolt and replaced the cam kit. Super easy just like everyone else said. Parts were here very quickly and at a great price!

Removed the liquid softener cartridge.
Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers.
Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension.
Lifted the agitator out.
Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces.
Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator.
Reversed the whole process.