4LBR8255DZ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Replaced pump without disassembling the cabinet or disconnecting motor or any other parts.

Disconnected power, drain, hot and cold water lines. drained lines to pail before taping to top of unit.

Tipped the unit to a 45 Deg. angle, leaning the top side edge onto a stool so that pump presented well at the raised bottom edge.

Removed hose clamps at pump suction and discharge ports and drained water into a shallow soaking pan. Kept clamps on hoses to facilitate reinstallation of pump.

Removed spring clamps at front and rear of pump housing.

Wiggled motor shaft away from coupling in pump. This is a friction fit, so no parts removal was required and no parts "come loose" in the process.

Wiggled new pump housing onto the motor shaft after checking square shaft alignment with respect to square female coupling on pump.

Pushed and twisted hose ends onto pump suction and discharge ports, then pulled spring clamps down over hose ends at pump ports.

Reset spring clamps so that they were aligned and square with pump ports. Reconnected power, drain, hot and cold water line connections.

Washer ran as before but without leaks this time.

The tub was out of alignment and water fell behind it and onto the floor. My brother-in-law suggested my problem could be the tub balancing spring and when I moved my washing machine, there it was on the ground.
The schematic does not show where it hooks up. So after I did what I thought looked right, the machine still did not work properly. Then I replaced the three suspension springs and that didn't solve the problem.
I found a whirlpool "do-it-yourself" repair book at the library and was prepared to tear into the machine. However, I did not have the tub balancing spring in the correct spot at one end. It hooks up from one of the outer bracket to the back of the housing unit along between the legs. There is a hole that had rusted through. I simply drilled a new hole nearby and low and behold it works!
Easy fix - the frustration was with the poor schematic.

The repair was very easy. The original dial was a poor design and did not hold up to the twisting and finally let loose. The threaded bottom of the dial stayed on the threaded shaft, so it was a simple matter of grabbing it with nose pliers and spinning off. Glue does not work with this type of plastic, I tried instant glue and hot glue. The replacement part was re-designed with a metal threaded center, so when it arrived in the mail, 3 days after online ordering, I spun it onto the shaft and job was complete. While I waited for the new part to arrive, I threaded 2 nuts onto the shaft and tightened them to each other to give me a temporary 'knob' that I could grab with my nose pliers.

It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for the bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

This is a machine I bought from Costco in 2001 - it has been very reliable and this was its first repair.
Getting the top off this washer requires a lot of disassembly. However, if you push the drum down on the right hand side of the machine, you can easily reach under the lid and remove the old switch. Mine had broken loose from its plastic mounts, so the lid plunger no longer activated it. Save the two screws that go through the washer top to secure the new switch.
I unplugged the electricity, reached under the top and pulled the old switch out. Its cables are enclosed in a stiff plastic hose with a slit down its length so you can pull the wires through the slit. You need to pull out around 6 inches of the wires. I then cut the wires to remove the old switch and next cut the wires on the new switch to the same length as the ones removed. Stagger the cuts about 1 inch so that the two joints will not be on top of each other. I stripped each end of the two wires, slipped shrink-wrap tubing (from radio shack) on to the new switch wires, then soldered the new switch wires to the existing wires back to the control center. I then slipped the shrink wrap over the soldered joints and shrank it with a match. Feed the joined wires back into the plastic tube and feed the switch under the washing machine rim. It takes a little maneuvering to get the switch aligned with the two screw holes in the top. Be sure the switch is pushed up into the lip opposite the screw holes - push the back end of the switch up into the lip before trying to align the front end of the switch with the screw holes. Align the screw holes with the switch holes, install the two screws and check that you hear the slight click of the microswitch if you push down a pencil into the interlock slot before you tighten everything up. Plug in the electricity and off you go!

Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.

Removed softner dispenser, removed bolt on top of agitater,replaced parts supplied with repair kit.
Directions were inclosed in package that were easy to follow.I ordered Thrust spacer not knowing it was included in repair kit.

I WAS VERY PLEASED WITH YOUR WEB SITE AND DELIVERY TIME.

Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

I basically dismantled the washer and turned the washer over to access the motor,transmission and pump.I disconnected the electrical connections first.I then released the clips for the pump and the clips for the transmission.The coupler was broken in little pieces.I went to Google to search for parts and happened to reach your Web Site.I found the part number for the coupler from the schematic and ordered it.It was then I discovered the part number for the cam dogs for the agitator so I ordered it also.While on you site I read the various troubleshooting stories and how each was repaired.I put myself through a lot of unnecessary work by dismantling the whole washer when all I had to do was turn it over and access it from the bottom.The parts arrived in three days and the install was rather simple thanks to the direction of your site.I had a heck of a time reassembling the washer but all in all $42.00 was a lot cheaper than a repairman or a new washer.We now have a working washer and no leaks.
Thanks to your site ,I have a happy wife and clean clothes.

before ordering the parts, I pulled the cap of the agitator, removed some internal parts of the agitator - had to remove one hex head bolt, and noticed the threads on the 3 little teenie weenie plastic dogs were worn off. I bought the repair kit on line after entering the model number, parts were here in a few days, and the repair took about 15 minutes. Works like new again.

The directions provided with the parts were very clear and made the job quick, easy, and painless.

Three of the four agitator cogs had broken. The agitator was able to spin freely both clockwise encounter clockwise which it should not be doing. I replaced the cogs as well as a couple additional parts just to be sure but the cogs were the important one. Very easy.

Removed bolt holding top of agitator, removed top of agitator. Replaced parts. Reinstalled agitator. An old machine now works like a new model.

Put the machine on its side. Remove old hoses and screw new ones into place. Done in under 20 minutes.