1CWTW4705GW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- LADD from ARCADIA, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10780045
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
When the washer would go into spin cycle it sounded like the drum was banging all four sides of the washer.
Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!
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- Customer:
- Dawn from TOWANDA, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10913953, WPW10006384
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer won’t go into spin cycle! Tries too but then stops
Replaced the drive belt and shift actuator but that did not fix the problem! So I ordered a transmission and this still did not fix it! I give up! Time to get a new washer!
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- Customer:
- Terry from KEYSTONE, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10837741
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
wanting to see this new energy efficient washer work, with the lid open
There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- Mark from BELLEVUE, NE
- Parts Used:
- W10837741
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The Washer acted like the lid would not latch and stopped it from cycling.
My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!
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Found washer to not agitate, washer was making a noise like grinding plastic on metal type noise. Was not sure what was causing noise until finally realizing that agitator was not agitating during wash cycle. To verify concern I removed old agitator assembly and marked top of input shaft and turned
Removed cover from dasher assembly and removed 7/16 bolt, removed agitator assembly and reinstalled new dasher assembly and installed new 7/16 bolt with washer included. Installed cover and tested washer. Washer worked normal again
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- Customer:
- Anna from TAWAS CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- W10837741
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lid strike broke
Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from BLUE POINT, NY
- Parts Used:
- 63580
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Machine delivered without fabric softener dispenser.
Removed the cover where the dispenser would have been installed and snapped the new one in. 5 minutes. When useing the dispenser after adding softener make sure to fill the dispenser with water to dilute and prevent staining.
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- Customer:
- Charles from SIOUX FALLS, SD
- Parts Used:
- 63580
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Fabric Softner Dispenser severly pluged
Watched the video on this site on removal and installment Done in less than 5 minutes including cleaning where the dispenser is located
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- Customer:
- kerry from WALKERTON, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP63235
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
agitator spin freely by hand. plastic splines striped out
remove cap on top of agitator, use socket with extension to remove bolt. pull up to remove old agitator, reverse order to install new part.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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- Customer:
- James from MAHWAH, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Burning smell, ASSUMED it was the belt
Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!
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- Customer:
- Bernard from ARIZONA CITY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Gear stripped on main spline
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
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- Customer:
- Michael from GEORGETOWN, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10780045
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Washer struts were wore out
Removed the old and replaced with new
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- Customer:
- Thomas from PAYSON, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP63235
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
agitator not working, Striped splines.
replace washer agitator. One bolt.
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