GSQ9633LW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed the top cap, unbolted the agitator, lifted off the top section, removed old "dogs" and replaced new "dogs", reinstalled agitator and tested.

Pulled the machine out. Tilted is back, had my son hold it up. Took pliers pulled off hose clamps, used flat head screw driver to pop off clips. removed pump. Then did it all in reverse.
Piece of cake.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

Unplug electrical cord, disconnect water inlet hoses and drain line at rear panel. Move washer to garage or larger work area if necessary. Disconnect control panel from top of washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the front corners of the control panel. (The control panel can now be flipped up and back when you are ready to remove the cabinet assembly.) Disconnect the rear panel from cabinet assembly by removing attaching screws at bottom of rear panel (and along the vertical edges if any screws are installed there). Either slightly lift the rear panel up off of the two clip brackets that attach it to the rear top edge of the cabinet assembly, or if need be remove the clips from the cabinet slots. With the rear panel loose, slide the control panel assembly slightly towards the rear and up to disengage it from the cabinet slots, then tip it up and back, away from the cabinet. The cabinet assembly (with top attached) can now be tipped forward and away from washer to expose the internal workings. (It may be necessary to support the rear panel and/or control panel.) The water pump is attached to the front of the motor by two spring clips. Disconnect the two water lines from the pump, then remove the two spring clips. Pull the pump forward off of the shaft extending out of the motor. Install the new pump, then assemble the washer in reverse order. (I was unsure where the leak originated on my washer so I completely removed the rear panel which entailed disconnecting from it the electrical cord fitting, drain and input water fixtures and various other brackets. Pump replacement can be accomplished without completely removing the back panel.)

just like video showed really helpfull

I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

I first watched a YouTube video on how to open up the machine. It was a breeze. I removed the part the hose attaches to where the water comes out and into the tub. The hardest part was removing the old hose clamps. Had I known I would have used new clamps. I took off old hose and replaced with the new one, it took longer because of the clamp issue. Otherwise it went fairly easy, to my surprise. Even tho I am a 70 yr old woman I will try to fix what I can. Doing this saved me at least $600. For a new washing machine. I'm so proud of myself.

The dispenser ring was loose due to the broken plastic dispenser. Replacement was too easy.
Removed the old, and snapped the new one in place. Took all of 1 minute. Now I'm back up and running

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

A label was created and never shipped. Sat there for 2 weeks.
Contacted company for a refund and a Retha’s never been issued.
Terrible service!

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Popped the cap off the agitator (pocket Knife) Look down in the center of the agitator. I saw I needed a 7/16 socket, 6" extention and ratchet. I used 1/4" drive. I took the retaining bolt out and lifted the upper portion of the agitator off of the iower portion and out of the tub. Set the part I took out on the dryer. I pulled the cone shaped part that houses the 4 cogs pieces out of the center of the upper agitator part. Once the coned shaped part was out, turned it upside down and placed it on the closed washing machine lid, then again used my pocket knife to lift the plastic retaining ring that securely holds the 4 cogs in place upward on the cone as to remove and replace the 4 worn out cogs with the new ones purchased in a repair kit. Pay close attention the direction the old cogs are facing, so the new ones go back in the same facing direction. It can be extremely easy to install the new ones backwards. I have to say at this point, I was quite disappointed with the retrofit repair kit I purchased. The new cone part the holds the cogs and goes down into the center of the upper agitator wouldn't allow the bolt that locks the whole agitator to the shaft to line up straight and wanted the bolt to "cross" thread into the main shaft. I took it all apart again and reused the original coned shaped part that came with the machine. I should have purchased just the 4 cogs for considerably less money. Reassembled the cone part and put it back together. Reinstalled the upper agitator in reverse order of removing it. Turned on the washer and it works like it's supposed to once again. Hope this helps the next person.

Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.