WWS833ES0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Pulled off back panel and found that the Drain pump had some how came loose, so I found screws and tried but still wouldn't work check pump for blockage couldn't find and but could hear the pump hum so figured the pump went bad. the hardest part was getting the squeeze type clamps off or it would have been a 30 minute job. I orederd new part and it came fed ex next day and put in and changed the bellows clamp to worm gear and made it a lot easier going in. Started washer and ran just like it was supposed to.

The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.

Remove the agitator and the 2 bolts that clamp the spin drum to the shaft and pull up on drum the 2 seals are on the shaft right there. Pry up on the seals to remove them. Install all seals and Be sure to completely clean all parts before putting them back in the machine and re assemble the machine. The bad part of this job is if you have used powdered soap it took 3 hours to clean the parts before reassembly.

This is complicated repair. It requires removing the dryer unit to get access to the water valve. The repair requires 2 people. One to help stabilize the dryer in the removal process and also to hold the dryer on top of the washer once it has been taken loose. The other person does the actual repair. None of the online techs had a clue on how to do this repair. So this was a learn as you go event. First completely disconnect the unit and move it so you have access clear around the unit, as you will need to be able to get on all 4 sides. Now as you face the unit remove the angled cover panel between the dryer and washer. Behind the cover panel is another panel for rigidity, remove it. Slide your hand down the inside of dryer cover panel on the left side. This will also require a flashlight to see what you're doing. Find the 3 hex headed screws that hold the left side on on the washer. DONOT CONFUSE THESE WITH THE SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE THAT ARE EASY TO GET TO!! There is one at the rear, then one at the center, and one right up against the edge of the front. The one at the front is almost impossible to get at. Remove the front one FIRST. ALSO LOCATE THE 2 EXTRA HOLES BY THE FRONT SCREW BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SCREW. Cause when you get ready for the reinstall those 2 holes are an issue. If you wait to remove the front last, the dryer unit is no longer stable and it will BITE you. Now go to the right side and repeat the process. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the dryer! Remove the 2 external screws at the rear where they hold the L bracket on, one on each side. Now the 2 of you pick up the dryer and sit it on the washer. There is just enough slack in the lines, wires to accomplish this without having to disconnect any of them. Replace the water valve, this part is a no brainer. Now for the reassembly. Sit dryer back in its proper place on the washer, have your helper hold it securely. Line up the holes. Install BUT DONOT TIGHTEN the rear and center screw on each side. Now attempt to install the front screws. Make sure you get them in their correct holes, the 2 spare holes are not threaded and larger all they do is grab your screw and make you fight to get it back, which can be done. Attach the 2 external screws on the rear. Tighten all the screws now. Reinstall the structure panel on the front, and then the cover panel. Hook up unit and you're done

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

Very simple, unplug washer for safety, remove 2 Phillips screws form bottom of front panel, slide panel down to slip the ears out of their slots. set panel off to side, remove the electrical plug on the pump, unscrew the two hold down Phillips screws, raise the pump up and slid a heavy absorbent towel under the pump, loosen the two clamps, slide the hoses off, remove the sloppy wet towel, install the new pump, and screw it down, push the electrical connection on, slip the hoses on , clamp them in place, install the front cover by aligning the slot and ears up, use a screw driver or something the raise the panel up in place then install the last 2 screws plug it in your done.

Just pushed the knob on to the metal on-off control,

UNPLUG APPLIANCE....very simple installation. Raise THE top and the switch is in the corner. Unplug the wiring harness and remove the 2 screws that hold the lid lock on. Reverse the procedure and replace the lid lock.

My guy got a beer and followed the advice from John from Covino CA. Thank you John, the part about pulling the pen sure made my guys repair a piece of cake! He replaced the timer and put the panel back on and I was doing a load of laundry immediately. My advice is follow John's advice!

watched the video, all instructions were perfect!

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

Checked drive belt by removing two screws on the BOTTOM of the front panel. Would spin dry but not agitate. Motor is two directional. Spin one way, agitate the other way. Same belt, so not the belt. Removed the agitator and the drive was turning but not the agitaor. It APPEARED that the agitator drive block was part of the agitator. IT IS NOT. Tap out the drive block,(Part # PSii52574)by threading a long bolt with the same threads as the screw that held the agitator to the drive assembly. Gently tap and the drive block will drop out. Replace the Agitator drive block. Worked like new for $21.32 + SH. The old agitator drive block was broken in pieces thus not allowing the agitator drive to turn the agitator back and forth. Did not need the Agitator, agitator screw or agitator spacer. Easy fix. No experience necessary. Cliff

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

Had to take the front and back panel off the washer. A couple of clamps and electrical plug in came off and then the motor. Put the new motor on plugged it back in and put on the clamps put the panels back on and was able to wash a load of clothes. It is now quiet and spins the clothes out as if it was brand new.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off