MXW121RBW0-23 Tappan Washer - Instructions

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

The repair would have gone much easier if I did not have a stack dryer on top of the washer. Had to roll out the total unit and work with the dryer partly on top. Only needed minimal work and tools after that.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

Quick google search brought me to this site, part was very easy to locate and purchase. The part was delivered within 5 days and 2 screws, 2 wires, 2 hoses, and 15 minutes later it was a done deal.

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

This appliance is being used in a third world country with no parts access. I discovered Partselect and easily found the schematic with parts listed. Needed parts were easily identified ordered online and received within 4 days in the US and in time to take on my day later flight outbound. The process was seamless and expeditious. Thank you Partselect!

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.

I used this website to look at the parts breakdown the only way water can get into the machine is thru the solenoid valve. Ordered valve.Followed the video on how to replace valve.I pulled apart the old valve. The plastic seat was cracked,letting water seep into the machine.

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!