SWFT73NN Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out

My son did the repair and thought it went very well. You saved me about $400 to $800 in that I didn't have to buy a new one. You got this part to me in 48 hours and I appreciated your timely manner. Your service is great! Thanks MZ

Removed the back,and a few screws through the top that held the filter sleeve in.
That allows enough room to reach in under the top, and unscrew the one screw that holds the element housing in place at the top.
Lifted the housing out after disconnecting the wires to the sensors and element.
Removed the element and replace it with the new one.
All of the electrical connectors slid right on the new element and put it back together.
Everything works fine.
Spent more time cleaning debris out of the dryer while I had it apart than replacing the part.
As usual Parts Select came through with the right part delivered to my door the next day, after ordering.
Thanks

Super easy!
-unplugged
-removed the 6 screws in the rear
-pulled off the back panel
-unplugged the 2 wires attached to the heater element (note which one connects to where)
-remove dryer filter and the 2 top screws that next to it
- lifted the top up
- there is one screw at the top of the heater element casing that needed to be removed.
- poped the heater casing away from the dryer.
then pulled it out from the bottom
- removed the one screw holding the heater element in the case, and slide it out
-slide the new one in, and put the screww back in
-pushed the heater casing back up in the dryer and connected the 2 element wires.
-slide the heater casing in the 2 slots and pushed it backing to the dryer at teh top.
-screwed the on screw back in at the top of the casing.
- put the dryer top back in place and 2 fliter screws back in.
- reattached the back panel. and plugged back in.
- viola...

I first disconnected the power, dryer vent hose, back panel, disconnected power leads to heater element. Next removed top screw to the heater box, slid the box up and away from lower mount. At this point I was able to remove 1 ea lower screw holding heater element in place. Removed heater element and installed new element. Put everything back in reverse order and started dryer. (Note: Be sure dryer door is closed prior to starting dryer)Yep, I screwed that up. It no "worky" when dryer door is open. Once the door was shut, it worked like a champ.

Replaced heating element,thermal fuse,cycling thermostat,thermal cut off kit and don't forget to flip your dryer fuse in the breaker panel that was a big one for me. Hope this helps you.

I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part was completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred

Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly

Took off the back panel of the dryer. Removed the screw holding the drying element in only to discover it would not fit out the bottom of the case holding it because it was too close to the bottom of the dryer. Had to take off the top of the dryer and remove the casing, remove the element, replace it and put the casing back. Not too difficult, only two wires and one screw. Did make a couple of rookie mistakes making me backtrack and redo a few things but nothing major.

Pulled the dryer out, unplugged from wall, removed vent hose and back covers. Poked hole through the label on the dryer frame to remove the heat element case spring retainer. Pulled the element housing out of the dryer and separated the element from the outer housing and did an ohm test. Test showed an open circuit. I found the burnt spot in the element and ordered a new one. Reinstalled with new element and everything works great.

Following one of your site's more detailed repair suggestions, I began checking the higher percentage likelihood of failures and stepped-through to what my initial suspicion was: The Heating Element (13% ??). I first checked the fuse (rated at 73% probability) (both thermostats were rated very low as possible problems) and immediately went to the element. The failure was discovered in short order by checking continuity along the coils until a physical break appeared. The most helpful advice I received was from the pointers to remove the two screws attaching the heat vent/filter plenum in order to lift the dryer top and access the anchor screw attaching the top of the heating element box. I was over-joyed to find that the 29-year-old part number I entered, with the replacement number your system displayed, was PRECISELY the physical size and shape of the original heating element when I opened the package !! To borrow a page from the old PGA TV ad: "(You) guys are good." Many thanks !!

Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Replaced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished

checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.

un plug power, pull out from wall,remove 5 screws and remove back cover. check heater element for curcuit found to be open. check the 2 temperature units on the heater housing, both ok. Remove the 2 flag connectors on the heating element, 2 wires each on temperature switches.remove upper heater case screw and bracker, lift and slide heater housing out of the dryer. Remove 1 screw holding heater element in the housing. compare old and new element, being the same. follow reverse steps and re assemble.

unpluged the unit removed exaust, pulled away from wall about 18 inches. Then leaned unit face down, remove back shield/cover also remove he two wires to elements. At the top of housing where element is in there is a screw that needs to be removed, then lift housing element is in side. Slide foward and lift to remove,to replace go in reverse.