LWS34AW-PLWS34AW Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Brake pad kit does not come with installation instructions even though it says it does. Remove bottom front panel from washer. There are three brake pads. One of mine (the right one) broke into three pieces and was found on the bottom of the washer. This is how I identified what was wrong. Run the washing machine on the handwash extra light cycle (you could use another cycle, I used this one because I believe it is the shortest), there is a point in the cycle where the disk clamping the brake pads separates from the brake pads and allows you to remove and replace the pads. During other parts of the cycle, the disk is clamped onto the brakes and you could not remove or install a brake pad. I removed the two black hose on the bottom right to get to the right brake pad. Have a 2 gallon bucket ready to collect the water if you did run the washer as above. With difficulty, I was also able to reach around the back side of the right brake pad. I used a socket wrench set. I then removed and replaced the left brake pad. I left the rear brake pad in place. I was not able to get to it.

The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

Pulled motor, as the belt will not come off unless you take to water pump off off the motor. Installed new idler wheel, washers, clips and belt. Reinstalled motor.
Works good and hopefully lasts a long time!

(UNPLUG APPLIANCE FIRST! )Used large flat bladed screwdriver to remove tub damper springs on front of tub.Then remomoved washer pump hoses after placing towel underneath to catch waste water.
Removed four bolts holding motor and pump assembly to tub pulled it forward slightly to remove motor electrical connector, turned assembly over to remove pump ("torx bit")
Intalled new belt being mindful of routing and idler pulley. Seems new belt is slightly longer requiring a little tension spring adjustment might have to replace it also. Washer now functions properly!

Remove bottom and top front panel to access motor. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. Remove spring that applies pressure to the Idler pulley wheel. Pull out electrical connector by pressing on the tab on top. Remove rubber hoses by gripping clamps with pliers. Unhook belt from pulley at bottom of tub. Pull out motor. Push upward and inward the top of the tub to make pulling out the motor easier. Remove allen screws that secure the plastic pump housing so you can remove the belt. Replace belt. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel, remember to order replacement washers, mine was brittle and disintegrated so had to remove the second one from the bottom and used only one each side, seems to work fine. Reassemble everything in reverse order. It now purrs like a kitten, wife is now happy doing the laundry, I get to ride my motorcycle this weekend at the Los Angeles Crest Highway carving the canyons, whoohoo! Life is good.

it was really easy to gain access to the valve, but the part was just a little different then the original. I had to lengthen one wire to make the new valve work. This did take care of the problem when completed.

Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

Needed part. Ordered Part from PartSelect Friday afternoon and figured I'd get it the following week. No big deal. Part arrived at my doorstep next morning before noon. UNBELIEVABLE SERVICE. Not requested, but it was there. So I fixed the machine as soon as I got it. I wish every company had this kind of service. I've already told my friends. It just can't get any easier than this.

Biggest trick is getting the agitator off. It seems like it is bolted on. I used a piece of braided cotton cord to run under both sides of the agitator and just pulled real hard. It WILL pop off.

Next the old seal will also seem to be attached. The edge is firm but not bolted. A small prybar will help.

Easy repair to do, but it did not fix my problem. I decided to get a new washer rather than go through further disassembly.

To remove the drive bell, I drilled numerous holes through the top and split it apart with a screwdriver. The hub was really stuck and due to the unavailability of a 6" puller, I was forced to drill holes in the center section, tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller, PB Blaster, and propane torch to remove the hub. After removing the hub, I found small holes rusted through the outer tub. These I repaired with JB WaterWeld quite successfully. The new parts were well made and went on easily in about 45 minutes.

First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Remove five screws holding the door hinge to the dryer frame. Remove the plastic cover over the screw holes on the opposite side. Remove the hinge from the door by removing two phillips head screws from the door edge and two phillips head screws from inside the door. Mount the hinge on the opposite side of the door. Attach to door to the opposite side with the five screws you removed previously. Remove and replace the the hinge cover and handle cover by popping out the plastic trim piece on the bottom and loosening the top trim pieces. Hook the replacement covers to the top trim pieces and pop the bottom piece back in. Replace the handle by removing two screws and put the new piece in. Tighten two screws and you're done

Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!

Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub springs, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.