RTW4640YQ1 Roper Washer - Instructions

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

Removed cover from dasher assembly and removed 7/16 bolt, removed agitator assembly and reinstalled new dasher assembly and installed new 7/16 bolt with washer included. Installed cover and tested washer. Washer worked normal again

The info. was really helpful

I ordered a lid switch because the washer wouldn't agitate. Most reviews indicated that was the problem. While waiting for the part to arrive, I discovered the transmission to be of fault.I let parts select know that I no longer needed the part. Parts Select gave me an immediate refund no questions asked and before I returned the part to them. That is customer service!! I will use Parts Select for all my future purchases. I can trust a company that trusts its customers.
Joe M. San Jose

Followed video provided by Part Select. Video made it look easier than it was but was very thorough and I was able to accomplish repair in less than an hour! The agitator before repair would bounce up and down when I pressed hard and let go. After repair it was much tighter!! Evidently this is a common problem with this design of Whirlpool washers!

remove cap on top of agitator, use socket with extension to remove bolt. pull up to remove old agitator, reverse order to install new part.

Just follow the video! Very easy.

I used a jack to lift the tub and unhooked the rods and replaced them. Works great.

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy.
Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go.
All For less than $20.

Removed 5 screws on back, released 2 retention clips on front, lifted top of washer to expose lock assembly, removed 2 screws holding lock assembly in place followed electrical line back to plug behind control panel plugged new lock in, and reassembled in reverse order. Done!

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.