MAH14PDDWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed back of washer and unscrewed pump band and hose removed pump and replaced pump,replaced hose to new pump,WE really appreciated the fast shipping of the part from your facility.Thank You again

I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

I looked on Utube at some videos which helped a lot all told i replaced the bearings in the outer hub which was quite a chore as the bearings came out rather hard I used a steel rod about 18 inches long and a heavy hammer to pound the old bearings out they came out hard then I put the new bearings in very carefully as I had to tap them back into place and installed the seal and put the new shaft on the tub and slid everything back into place. The instructions that came with the new seal and shaft were very helpful I bought the new bearings from local implement dealer as they were not available with the shaft and seal didn't keep track of my hours probably about 21/2 to 3 hours

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

This is an easy fix once you see how it goes together but can be a little difficult in certain steps. I first Removed the door at the hinges and removed the screws on the side securing the liner. Once the liner was removed you can see what pieces are involved and how they go together. Take pictures before removing any thing, you'll need them during the repair. I removed the vent tube and the circular thing with springs. Transfer the circular thing first noting the screw slots. The next step may be a little difficult to see how the upper vent tube bracket slides off and how to maneuver the springs. The whole unit comes off as one so don't take it apart. Make sure you know how it goes back on with pictures. I found using channel lock pliers to compress the site springs was the best as it was easily attached on the new panel while compressed. The vent tube with the rubber seal on the bottom was tricky but you can finesse it in place. Once together putting the door together and back on the unit was easy, Worked great and saved a ton of repair money.

Be fastidious at removing residual tub water, a wet-vac is your best friend. Repair is best addressed from rear of washer. Caveat!! The drain tube will still contain waste water, as will the tub's ribbed water-exit tube at tub's bottom connected to the water pump. A stitch in time will save agonizing mop-up chores. The pump replacement task was quite forward, no issues at all with this PartsSelect beauty of a replacement, all disconnected it just perfectly slides into its detents. Carefully reinstall (2) small electrical connectors and (3) hoseclamps and you're ready to go.

CSR was friendly and knowledgable. Waterpump was promised for Thursday delivery but arrived on Tuesday, 2-days early. Great service, thank you!!!!

Removed back cover to gain access to the pump. Disconnect two wires to the pump. Remove hose clamps on inlet and outlet of pump and rotate pump to the left to remove. Installation is the reverse. I would also remove the large discharge hose from the bottom of the drum to make sure you don't have any debris at the inlet of the pump. My pump had a dime, and a bobby pin stuck in it. It was the bobby pin that over time penetrated the pump housing that caused the leak. I ordered the pump with the normal ground rate on a Thursday evening and had the pump it in hand around noon on Saturday. Couldn't ask for better service. The part was an exact factory replacment.

Disconnect power. Remove back panel. Use shop vac to remove water from drum. You can also remove one of the agitator fins from the drum (uses 2 TORX screws) to gain access to inner tub drain hole to remove additional water with shop vac and check for obstructions. Remove power wires from pump, noting position of each. Place towel near pump and disconnect input and output hoses. Rotate pump to disengage from slots in base, and remove. Installation is reverse.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Removing the gasket was very easy. A couple hints on installing (1) attach the gasket to the drum first!! this is the trickiest part but once you get it on, attaching the cable and spring was fairly easy (just used two people and a pair of needle nose pliers). Once you get that on, "lube" up the other side with soap to make install easier.

My husband completed the repair by himself. He said that the "string trick" was helpful.

With a torn boot on this front load washer, (nails in the pocket of my jeans) water leaked out on the floor with every wash. I knew it would cost a fortune to get fixed, so I decided to try it myself. I can take anything apart!
I heard of Parts Select.com from a friend and checked it out. With their help, I found the model and part and just ordered it. It was easy!
When the part arrived, I was obligated then to do something!
Since this is a stack unit, with the dryer on top, I thought I would take the dryer off and try the repair from the top. But there was no way that dryer was coming off! I tryed every screw and it wouldnt budge.
So I saw two screws in the front and started in on the washer below. I was careful to make notes on how I took this machine apart so I could put it back together!
I got down to the drum with a spring close guywire that holds the boot tight to the drum. It came off easily and I took the old torn boot off and put the new boot in place.
The tough part was getting that guywire and tight spring back on! The lip that holds the boot to the drum is very shallow and the book would not stay on all the way around and allow me to string the guy wire around in the little channel without coming off. FRUSTRATING!
I improvised and used duct tape to tape the boot to the drum to keep it in place so I could string that wire around. Man, did that take some doing!
I managed to get that wire around with the help of the duct tape, but the second big challenge was putting the spring on, as it was under alot of tension. It was tough to puuuuuullllll it together without pulling the boot out of the channel I had to duct tape it into!
By the grace of the Almighty, some prayer and some cussing (forgive me Lord), I got the spring into the rings on both ends of the guy wire. VICTORY!
Putting the boot front back in is easy, just put it into the holes that receive the projections under the front of the boot. No problem.
After all that, putting the washer all back together was a cinch!
And....
IT WORKS!!
I did it! No more leak! No expensive fix it job!
I did it myself, am prouder than heck!
Oh.....
No more Nails in the jean pockets!

Very easy.I used a screw driver to remove and install the new hinges. Three screws on each hinge. Door closes like new again.

Used the conversion kit to replace both parts.Note the supplied instructions say to test the install by running a spin cycle before you put the door and panels back on. However the unit will not initiate a spin cycle without the door lock engaged. Not just the light switch, the actual door lock mechanism. You have to reinstall the door, then test. This error in the instructions cost me about 30 minutes.

The first step to repairing this problem is to remove the hoses and back panel of the washer. Next detach both the hoses attached to the pump ( have some towels handy because their will be a lot of water pouring out of the pump). Before removing any screws on the pump, use a wrench to remove the bottom platform securing the pump inside of the washer. On the the Amana washer there should be about three bolts holding this small platform down. After unscrewing the bolts, unsnap the wire connected to the motor and remove the platform to get the entire pump out of the washer. The next step is to unscrew the screws on the bottom of the platform to release the base of the pump. The next step is to put the new pump on that same platform. FYI the new pump may not fit on the platform. To solve this problem, unscrew the motor/pump(the black thing) from the base holding the motor( the cream or white colored part). Do this step for the old and new motor/pump. Screw your new motor to the old base. Screw the base with the motor attached back on the platform. Connect the wire in the washer back to the motor. Screw the platform back in the washer and reconnect everything that was disconnected to remove the motor/pump. Finally put the back panel back on the washer and run a test cycle. The washer should now be able to drain.