MVWC565FW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Louis from MANDEVILLE, LA
- Parts Used:
- W11307244
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer would not complete cycle, as I forced the top open when locked
I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy
Thanks
Louis
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy
Thanks
Louis
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- Customer:
- melinda from HARROGATE, TN
- Parts Used:
- W11038689
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Water would not stop flowing.
*be sure to turn water off, unplug machine, and unscrew the water hoses from the rear of the washer.
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.
5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!
1. Removed screws from the back of the washer, just the top part where the controls are.
2. Removed the panel.
3. Use a putty knife or screw driver to pop off the top panel.
4. Remove the screws from the inlet valve.
5. Unplug the wires connecting the inlet valve to the washer.
6. Lift out the old inlet valve.
7. Replace with the new inlet valve.
8. Plug the new wires into the washer.
9. Replace the screws in the inlet valve.
10. Replace the top.
11. Replace the rear panel and screws.
12. Reconnect the water hoses, careful not to mix the hot and cold.
13. Plug the machine back in and you're finished!
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Washer was stuck on rinse cycle
Research showed it was the transmission and the actuator . Parts were super easy to install and it solved the issue 100%
PS - I put some light lithium grease on the transmission and it’s quieter than it was when new
PS - I put some light lithium grease on the transmission and it’s quieter than it was when new
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- Customer:
- Lee from FORT WORTH, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11481722
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Washer would not agitate
When to PartSelect Web site, used their trouble shooting guide, Used their advice, which was to replace the actuator. bought and installed the actuator which took around 20 minutes or so. washer started working fine after replacing. Thanks to the website I save a lot of money. Thanks PartSelect
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- Customer:
- jonathan from JOHNSTOWN, CO
- Parts Used:
- W11038689
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Braken hot water inlet
Replaced the mixer valve . It was a few screws, and an instruction video from YouTube.
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- Customer:
- Adam from LUMBERTON, MS
- Parts Used:
- W11307244
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Washing would stop working mid cycle
I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- Terry from KEYSTONE, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10837741
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
wanting to see this new energy efficient washer work, with the lid open
There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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- Customer:
- Philip from SAN ANTONIO, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11038689
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
water valve leaking water nonstop
easy install 30-45min and a reset and it was done.
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- Customer:
- Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
heavy loads did not spin dry properly
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from BAKER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loose pulley
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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- Customer:
- Tom from Albert Lea, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11130362
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The tub was horribly out of balance due to bad suspension rods.
I checked on-line to diagnose the problem, then I researched the parts needed to fix it. I also researched and watched a video on YouTube. Once I removed one of the old suspension rods I simply used the hooked end to grab the hooked end of the new rod and used a vice grip to pull it into place.
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- Customer:
- Craig from CRARY, ND
- Parts Used:
- W10528947
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Very wet clothes after load was complete
Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline grooves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt
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- Customer:
- Johnny from NORTH JUDSON, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10528947
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
the splines were worn out on the hub assembley
screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .
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