MVWC415EW2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

Made sure the inner tub was sealed on main tub and snapped back in its place. You must make sure it completely snaps down and does not come off. Listen for the locking sound, then pull with a little pressure to make sure it has locked on. Thanks for shipping the correct part as quick as you did.

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Part fixed it perfectly.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I watched the video and for the most part the first part of the repair went well. I carefully stored the screws, but despite what the video suggested the part did NOT just slide out. Upon further inspection I discovered two small screws in the top of the valve housing affixing it to the machine. Since it was to narrow an are to use a driver I was forced to remove the housing that holds the timer, which involved removing the knob and a small screw. On each side of the housing was a metal clip and true to form I was able to loosen one side but the other the clip launched into orbit. After a thorough inspection of the floor I found said clip. I was then able to remove the housing and loosen the two screws. Of interest is the fact that the new part had molded places for screws different that the video. After that replacing everything went smoothly and I was able to hook up the washer as the repair was successful.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

remove basket and replace drive hub kit

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Snapped on new dispenser to agitator

Pop center cover off wash plate. Remove bolt. Lift off washplate. Slide retainer off with screwdriver and hammer. Slide new retainer on. Replace washplate.