MVWC415EW2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Cold and hot water valve .easy as pie.

I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

Following what the video shows how that they send with your part email, confirmation or receipt!! Easy Peasy!!

Our 5 year old Kenmore washing machine broke. The first symptom was that the clothes would come out completely wet. This was due to no spin cycle. The second symptom was that the washing machine had little to no agitation. The lid still locked shut, there was no odor, and you could hear the machine running.

In the event a machine does not agitate or spin, the diagnostics on this website will lead you to believe that drive hub assembly or shift actuator is the problem. The drive hub assembly is by far the more common repair (the pieces are made of plastic and are designed to wear out). If you are torn, go with the drive hub kit repair. That's what it was.

There were some surprises after carefully watching the how to video. First, the agitator in my machine was very tall and required a socket wrench extension to reach the drive hub nut. This will require two sets of hands. Second, the drive hub nut was stuck to the point where I nearly gave up. WD-40 and degreaser did not work to loosen. I ended up pouring a half teaspoon of powdered soap onto the stuck nut to get more grip on the nut. This, along with two sets of hands, got it loose. Third, calibrating machine was barely touched on in the video but this is extremely difficult, the instructions that come with the part were insufficient, and the videos on the internet are not that good. In the end, I'm not sure that the machine ever calibrated. In essence, the machine is re-calibrated by turning the switch in a specific sequence of right to left. Lights are then supposed to flash. This never did anything. I ended up opening and shutting the lid 10 times in 10 seconds as this was allegedly a way to recalibrate.

Note: 2018 and later washing machines suck because of California and the federal government rules and pressure to make them "green". Well, they don't work that well anymore as a result. Keep this in mind when you vote.

Thought we needed a new shift actuator but after getting the parts and starting the replacement noticed the capacitor had come loose and was banging around under the washer. Found there was a little wire to the shift actuator that was cut probable from the capacitor being loose. spliced the wire back together and replaced the capacitor but not the shift actuator and its been working great. was an easy fix and easy to get to. Didn't need the maytag man when we can get parts from here.

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

see you tube on how too

Removed belt cover from bottom of the transmission , remove old belt, clean the pulleys ,and re install new belt. The new belt fits tighter so it did a few time to get the belt fully seated. Re install belt cover.

Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.

Turn off the water at both the cold and hot. May need an bucket to catch any water left in the lines. Then unplug the washer to kill power of course...Taking off the 10 or so small screws in the back metal cover will get you started. The tricky part is getting the clips off the back top where the knobs are. You will have 2 plastic clips and 2 metal clips, 1 on each side. Take a flat head and ease them up and out....careful not to break them! You can pull the whole control panel away from your work area. Once you have full accuses to the valves its self, it is held in by 2 screw on the top inside a slot. You can now unplug the pigtail harness. Repeat the process in reverse to get it back together and the job is complete. 30 to 45 minutes Max.

I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.

had to change out wiring harness was not compatible

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .