6359 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.

I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.

I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.

Tom Nelson
Fort Worth, TX

Very Easy Repair! Removed 2 screws at the bottom using a philips screw driver(one on each side). Lifted the cover up to detach. 2 screws at the top were removed using a socket set (one on each side). Old tub cover snapped off easily. Make sure you set the cover the same way as the old cover. The new cover snapped on with minimal force. Make sure it's fully seated. Put everything back together in reverse. Took 20min. Most of the time searching for the tools.

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

The valve was leaking. I shut off the water to the machine and unplugged the power supply. I removed the defective valve. I then installed the new replacement valve reconnecting the 3 hoses and the 4 wires to the selenoid. I plugged it in and tried it before I pushed the machine back in place. I had to retighten one of the hose connections due to leaking. The leak stopped and I then pushed the machine back in place.

It saved me some $500.00, the cost of a new machine.

The repair man shouldnt have opened his big mouth. He told me exactly what the problem was over the phone, but said he couldnt get to it for a few days. 20 minutes later I found the part and overnighted it to my house. Removed the back panel with a few screws. Couldnt have been easier.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE OUTLET

Remove control knob, - use thin blade to pry off the front cover to reveal a small locking clip. Slide clip out with blade or screwdriver.

Note the two bolts to remove the timer using a nutdriver or small socket

Remove front control cover, (There are actually four screws on top but you only need to remove the two inside screws. The outside screws just hold the plastic ends on.)

While supporting the cover, remove the timer by removing the two bolts under the knob you removed earlier.

Remove the two electrical connections. ( Hold locking clip out when wiggling the connection free.)

Reverse order install of the new timer, plug it back in and washer washes, magic!

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.