PVTEST1W Maytag Washer - Instructions

Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!

I had pretty much the same experience as others. Difficult parts were 1) removing the inner tub, I used the blunt side of an axe with a 4x4 after several hammers would budge it. 2) removing the old bearing, like others I had to cut them out using a Dremmel with a steel cutting disk from Home Depot ($15) Wear eye protection as sparks are flying! Cut out the inner race and the bearing fell out, then cut V notches in the outer race, trying not to cut into the bearing seats on the tub although I did have a couple small cuts, then hammered it out from opposite side. Installed the new beaings and metal sleave between (what is the sleave for?). I tapped both bearing up against the seat shoulder but with the sleave in between there's not enough room and the new bearings turned real hard as the sleave is binding them. (Minor panic). A couple taps with hammer and chisel on the inner bearing from opposite side to push it out created enough room and the bearings turned real easy. Suggestion; plug the drain opening in the bottom of the outer tub with a towel or sponge to prevent pieces of the old bearing from falling in there. I saw one ball roll down in drain, so I tipped the machine on its side and several balls washed out plus pieces of the old bearing. I had a towel laying over the top but that wasn't enough, needs to be stuffed down in the opening. Re-assembly was easy and the machine runs perfect. The wife is very impressed. Total investment approx $85 (kit, bearings and cutting disk) plus about 8-10 hours vs $800 repair or new machine.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

I went on your site and found out the Bearings were not sold separately by Maytag and that they wanted $800.00 for the entire outer tub in which the bearings are pressed into. I read another post on your site where someone referenced some NSK bearing part numbers. I went to my local auto parts store that cross referenced the NSK number to Timken Bearings (a high quality automotive bearing). Following the instructions I hammered out what was left of the old bearings cleaned everything and pressed in the new bearings. When the Lip Seal kit arrived I pressed in the new seal following the instructions provided, reassembled the washer and it’s as good as new. Total cost just over $100 in parts and a few hours labor. Removal of the old bearings was a difficult task especially since mine were in such bad condition as water must have been slowly leaking into them for some time. If you have some basic automotive repair skills and or some knowledge of how to remove and replaced pressed in bearings I would recommend this repair. In my case money was the motivating factor with 2 kids in college and a wife who would have insisted on a new matching set of a washer and a dryer instead of just replacing the washer.

Using online disassembly instructions removed and replaced front and rear bearings. Then attempted to install the seal kit that was purchased online from partselect. Com. Was supposed to receive both seals plus lubricant so that no matter which seal I needed I would be covered. The kit I received had 2 seals that were identical. . . I needed, as it turned out the early seal kit, but unfortuneatly I had 2 revised kits. Of course I tried to assemble one but it just won't work. The seal kit must be the correct one. I didn't give up. I ordered another seal kit online from appliance partspros. Com and received both kits as advertized. . . One being the early version plus a small packet of grease along with all the other required loose parts and was able to complete the repair. The second time around proved much easier because of the experience factor.

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

I just replaced the pump.

Replaced drain pump and drain hose.

With the video you had on your web site, the repair was very easy. couldn't be any happier. you saved me from buying a new washer!

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

Replaced the inside door panel. Who needs a Maytag repairman! Thank you for the great instructional video.

removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

I am happy when PartSelect included the instruction video, so I completed my repair that easy. Thanks the PartSelect. Davis Dao

Removed the door from the washer and removed the screws holding the broken door panel to the outer door. Removed the clips that hold the screws in and transferred them to the new inner door panel. Removed the drain pipe and gasket (I assume that's what it's called) by unclipping the bottom from the door. There is another metal ring that had to be unscrewed. Then we screwed it to the new door panel and installed the gasket and drain pipe. Attached the new inner door panel to the outer door and screwed the door to the washer. Fairly easy repair.