MHWE500VW10 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took old one off and put the new one on. Was very easy. Hardest part was disconnecting hose clamps, which was still easy

took front panel off. Pump is right there easy to work on. Used pliers to take 2 hose clamps off. Used star screw driver to take 2 screws off of pump and removed old pump. The Assemblely goes the same way but the drain hose coming off the tube is not very easy to get back on. Hose is flimsey and the stem, on the end of the drain pump isnt long enough to keep hose on while tring to slide hose clamp back on.

Read the instructions provided by PartSelect.....and with a bit of patience I installed all four bolts so the washer's inside agitator was not damaged in shipping. I highly recommend that anyone who is moving/storing or shipping their washer that you find the correct shipping bolts according to your model and make and install them prior to moving your appliance.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

It was a little difficult to put the new Bellow in place on the tub, due to the fact you have to basically push the outside of the Bellow all the way into the tub so you can install the tub clamp. The other difficult part of the task was tightening up the clamp it's self. There really isn't a lot of room to move your hand around in the space you are given to work. But after a few hand cramps and a few things said, that are not needing repeated, I was able to get the clamp tight. Once you have the clamp on the tub, it's basically pretty simple to slide everything else into place. The wire/spring clamp that is used to attach the Bellow to the front of the washer is fairly simple to put into place with a little patience. All in all it was a cheep and easy repair for a due-it-your self repair.

Replaced pump assembly

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

It took less time to repair than it took to get new baffle out of the packing sleeve. Set it in drum and snapped it in place. Took about 5 seconds.

Placed baffle in drum over slots pushed down on it and slid it back to lock it in place. You will hear it click.

Very easy. Revived back of washer. Used a screwdriver to pull belt over pulley. Very easy

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.