MHW8200FC0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The top and back were already removed from front load washer. There is no lower front access panel on my washer. I followed a YouTube video that showed a similar washer model with a drain pump that looked exactly the same. This video had the washer up on a work bench for easier access. My washer is in a very tight space and the best I could do was wiggle it out and set the rear corners on bed risers. There are 4 screws that take a nut driver to loosen. My nut driver was too long to fit. My sockets were too fat to fit. I took my socket handle and put on a smaller socket, then added a nut driver from a power drill. This made it short enough to fit. One screw was totally by braille. The pump came off easily. I lubed the gasket part of the new pump with liquid soap. It was difficult for me to push the new pump up, so I used a ball hammer to wedge it up bit by bit. I was able to twist the ball hammer head enough to keep the pump up while I put the screws back. The screws finished snugging everything up. Washer works great now! This was done by a grandmother and obviously not an appliance technician.

Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer

Took the back cover off. Took screws off to pump. Replaced pump. Did everything reverse. Tested to make sure.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

I didn’t know at the time that they weren’t gonna send me glass, they sent me plastic as a replacement. However the notch didn’t line up in the door to make sure it was in the right position so because it was plastic I was able to cut the notch out with a multi tool and made it work. I’ve been doing laundry all week and there’s no problems

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.

I am still waiting for the correct part to arrive, I was sent a part but it was the wrong part, the wrong part number and it was nothing that would work on a washing machine. I think someone else ended up with my part and I got theirs.

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

!!!! Unplug washer and let sit for about 15 minutes before performing any repairs!!!! Remove back cover with 1/4 inch nut driver. Locate drain filter under drum and slowly remove cap to drain(it will help to catch the water that drains out with either a shallow bucket or a wet/dry shop vac). Disconnect single electrical connector on pump. Locate and remove four mounting screws with 1/4 inch socket and ratchet. Remove pump and remove as much debris as possible. Install new pump with light amount of dish soap or other lubricant on o-ring seal. Tighten mounting screws. Connect electrical connector. Reinstall back cover.

Unplugged the unit and remove the back cover of the washer. Broken shock was the right rear one so easy access.
Used channel locks to twist the upper and lower portion of the shocks to unlock them from the washer.
Installing the new part, it is advisable to clean the washer base cover that the shock fits into. Corrosion can make it difficult to insert shock tab and twist if not cleaned. I had to use the channel locks to twist, but be careful as the locking tabs are plastic.
It is also advisable that when you have the back cover off, that you clean the washer filter.

Checked YouTube and the guy walked me through the process and it was exactly as he described

Well, I am a 66 year old Grandma. I had to take off the entire back panel... no big deal ... then make sure to remember how the hose attaches to the bottom of the machine. Taking the clamp off with whimpy pliers was a little difficult due to the location. The most difficult part was laying on the floor and trying to use the stupid pliers that kept slipping off the clamp and try to shove the new hose on in the correct position. I just didn't have the grip power and manuverability to grab ... squeeze ... push the internal hose at the same time. I finally got it attached after 33 minutes. The rest of the hose attached litterally in a snap. Replaced the back panel and good to go!