4GMVWC100YQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

the repair went well but I still haven't received a refund for the order was was sent incorrectly. Order #22085769 order date 2/3/23

I already had the old agitator out, so when I got the new one I put it in the tub. You have to spin it a little so it seats properly. I then tightened the bolt with a 7/16” socket and my wife was washing a load within 15 minutes

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Super easy. Watch the video on YouTube.

Pulled up on fabric softener dispenser and removed it. Had to use pliers to remove cap and seal to get access to the bolt holding the agitator in.

Realized my socket extension wasn’t long enough so went to Lowe’s and bought another.

Was unable to hold the bottom of the agitator to keep it still and get enough leverage to remove the bolt. I poured hot water over it and then climbed into the washer and used my foot to hold the vanes still while I removed the bolt. Once I got the agitator out, the rest was a breeze. Separated the top of the agitator from the bottom by placing it on the floor, using my feet to hold it down and pulling up to remove the top part of the agitator.
Turned the top of the agitator upside down and removed the cam and feed dogs. Assembled the new one and held the agitator top horizontally while placing the new part back in.
Reassembled the top and bottom of the agitator and put it back into the washer. Tightened the bolt, replaced the cap with its seal and pressed the fabric softener dispenser back into place.

Removed the attaching bolt and then removed the Upper Agitator Assembly. I removed the damaged parts and installed the Agitator Repair Kit and Re-installed the NEW Upper Agitator Assembly.

All of our wash was smelling like mildew. It was making us nauseas . After the repair everything smelled fresh and clean again. We received our parts within three days.

Thanks

I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.

Thanks for making finding part so easy . . . .

I popped the cap off of the agitator. I could see the grabbers weren't grabbing the side of the agitator. I thought I could take a shot at fixing it since I was ready to give up. Happened upon this site. With the model number, I was very easily able to find the parts I needed. Ordered them up. Took one bolt out of the assembly and the whole agitator came off. I popped in the new parts as the diagram was very easy to follow, resecured the bolt, and all was good. I saved a ton of money off replacement or even calling a service tech. Your site made this very easy with the detailed diagrams. Didn't order anything I didn't need. Only cost $11 to fix it and made me feel like Mr. Fixit. I will definitely use your site as my first, best choice for any problems I have in the future.

took out old agitator and installed new one, machine now runs like new. couldn't be happier.

Ordered the agitator repair kit and it came very fast.. Followed the instructions, the kit had all the parts needed.. Took around 30 minutes, but some of that was scraping the built up scale from the agitator itself, you might not have to do that.. Easy job.. Agitator now works like new.. Very Happy, and so is my wife, the kids looked and said, "Hey,my jeans go down to the bottom now, cool..!!"

Removed old agitator and determined teeth in center were worn down. Purchased new upper agitator assembly and repair kit. It now works like a new washer. (NOTE: It wasn't until after I did the repair that I heard 15 years is quite old for a washer. But it cost me $40 to repair compared to $500 to replace. I hope it lasts another 15 years!)

I ordered these parts for next day delivery. The next morning they were on my door step!

I pulled off the plastic cover inside the agitator, under the softener dispenser and replaced the old "O" rign with the new one. Next I used a 3/8" socket with a 6" extension to loosen the agitator nut and removed it. The one on our machine was on rather tightly - a bit too tight in my estimation.

The upper part of the agitator lifted easily. I lifted out the cog mechanism and studied it. I took the new parts, and assembled them, using the old parts for visual reference. All of this took about ten minutes. Be sure you push firmly on the retainer until it locks in place to keep the cogs in their slots.

Next I spent about 15 minutes cleaning up the agitator just because I like to put stuff back together in 'clean condition'.

Next I replaced the thrust bearing. The instruction specified a special grease to lubricate the thrust bearing - order this when you order the parts. The original one had no grease on it and was quite worn. I used food grade vaseline. You could probably also use silicone lube on this, the part is nylon.

After I cleaned the assembly and put in the new thrust bearing, I replaced the agitator. I had slight difficulty lining up two grooves on the cog holder for the guides in the main agitator mount but got them lined up on the third try - that took less than a minute. I put the new washer on the nut, inserted the nut and tightened it down - be careful not to over tighten, just make sure it is snugged down.

Over-all this is a fairly straight-forward repair job and is not difficult - anyone who can follow easy to read instructions and run a socket wrench can do this. I would only caution to make sure the new cogs are correctly oriented in their holder. Study how the original is assembled so you can duplicate it with the new parts. Just for the record, the nut is standard right hand thread - lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I think these parts are made to fail on purpose - if the machine gets over loaded and the agitator can't work it will chew up the cogs rather than break the agitator. Good thinking on some engineer's part!

I was lucky when I found Parts Select - I'll come here for my parts from now on!

1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy.
Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go.
All For less than $20.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!