LAT8014ABL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Correctly diagnosed that it was the lid check switch that wasn't working. Ordered the part and when it came it took 5 minutes to change out. Very easy and works fine.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

This website is GREAT! I found the part by looking up the symptoms, and once on the page for the lid repair switch, I found several folks with the exact same problem. This was such an easy fix. I waited for the part to come in, and once I had it in my hands, simply unplugged the machine, took out the 4 screws holding the control panel in place, and then took out the 1 screw holding the lid switch in place and replace it! It was really that simple! The machine works perfectly again. Worth every penny! One thing, the old part is black, and the new one is white, so it takes a moment to find it.

disconnected and replaced switch. I ordered the switch one day and Fed Ex delivered it the next morning. Iam amazed at the quick service from this appliance supply store.

replace the water valve

Removed the old one installed the new one

I'm not a professional repair person, so diagnosis was more difficult than this repair was. A little research online and some smart investigation(and by smart I mean unplugging the washer before taking the access panel off); resulted in a less than $30 repair - compared to what would have been close to a $150 technicians visit and repair! Simply unplug the washer, unscrew the access panel, unscrew the lid check switch, screw in the new switch, put the panel back on, plug the washer in, and start the wash cycle. Seriously, less than 15 minutes!

The 4 countersunk phillips head screws that retain the control panel were removed allowing access to the lid switch assembly. I took a picture of the switch assembly to record wire location with my phone. The one screw that retains the switch assembly was removed after all of it's associated wires were removed. The old switch was removed and the new switch installed. Problem solved.

Iam waiting to install it.when it stop again/it will take me about 5 min.

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

Tried replacing timer, mixing valve, drain pump to no avail. Bought the lid switch assembly. That worked, here's how to do it. Unplug washer. Remove two philips head screws on top control panel to remove front. The lid switch assembly is mounted on the back behind the timer, and easily recognizable by the fuse. Remove wires (I needed wd40 for this part) from old assembly and connect to new assembly. Use nut driver to remove nut that holds the assembly to the washer, being careful to note exactly where the assembly was mounted, because it's adjustable. Bolt new assembly in place. Replace control panel cover (be sure that the bottom lip fits inside before replacing the screws on top. Plug in washer. Turn on washer. You're done.

I took the back off the control panel marked placement of old switch with a sharpie marker removed screws and wires installed on new switch screwed down new switch on my marks replaced back now it is working good as new around 10 minutes total time

After watching the video on this website and testing the lid switch with my volt/ohm meter I figured out I had a bad lid switch. I ordered the part on Friday evening and got it on Monday. Took me 5 minutes to replace. My problem was solved. I can now add "washer repair man" to my resume. Just Kidding!

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

After troubleshooting the drain system and my plumbing, I read online that it could be the open door switch. Part select agreed and I ordered the part. Their handy troubleshooting guide was helpful. The part came a few days later, and I easily replaced it. Has been working for two weeks and running.