LAT8014ABL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Done a troubleshooting problem online. Figured out the problem and ordered the part. Removed old part installed new part and I am a female not that it should make a difference but some would say it does. Had the old part out and new part put in and it took me about 30 minutes. Washer now works like a new machine. Very pleased and proud of myself. The part was the lid switch assembly.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

I watched the video suggested by Part Select, it was easy to follow. I had first changed the belts because they were worn but that wasn't the problem, the next suggestion was the lid switch assembly which was the answer. This washer was produced in 1989 and works like new again!

I saw on internet that it was the lid switch and how to fix it. On this machine I have replaced timer and belts, machine is 22 years old.
A bowling friend of my father, was a Magtag repairman and salesman. For years showed me how to fix my Sears washer and dryer. When he sold me a Magtag washer and dryer, he said it was a great machine.By the way my dad worked for Easy Washer in Syracuse, They invented the spin cycle, ask Whirlpool.
ED

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

Used duct tape as the video provided instructed and also to hold second hinge lid ball in place. Firmly pushed down on the lid until it easily popped in place.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

At first, I suspected the timer. In the problem solving section of the Maytag owner's manual, there was a reference to the Lid Check Switch, which was the queue I needed. with the help of the electrical diagram, I located the switch,then hotwired that circuit to confirm to myself that it was the switch that was faulty. Overall an easy fix.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

I guessed that the lid switch was bad based on internet information that suggested that cause of the problem. I confirmed this by disconnecting 2 wires to switch and taping them together to bypass the switch. Wiring diagram was available. Washer worked that way so I ordered a new switch which arrived within 22 hours, regular shipping.

Replaced the switch. No need for me to add detailed instructions for this simple swap. More than enough descriptions are already collected on the excellent website of this outstanding parts supplier!

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

This website is GREAT! I found the part by looking up the symptoms, and once on the page for the lid repair switch, I found several folks with the exact same problem. This was such an easy fix. I waited for the part to come in, and once I had it in my hands, simply unplugged the machine, took out the 4 screws holding the control panel in place, and then took out the 1 screw holding the lid switch in place and replace it! It was really that simple! The machine works perfectly again. Worth every penny! One thing, the old part is black, and the new one is white, so it takes a moment to find it.