MAT12CSDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!

Emptied washing machine tub with a small plastic bowl into a 5 gallon bucket, finihsing up last bit of water by soaking it up with towels. I next removed front panel on washing machine by unscrewing two screws on the bottom front, left and right, to gain access to the pump. Loosened two hose clamps and detached two hoses, catching remining water from washertub. moved washer out from wall about 3 feet and tilted washer back towards wall so I could access the inderneath of washer to lossen three bolts that held pump in place. removed belt from pum to motor and examined fro glaze or wear (none detected) and then removed pum and reversed steps to install new pump, reinstalling belt faily loosly, per instructions. Tried washer to see if ssue resolved and once confirmed, replaced the front panel. Have done multiple washes since then (at least 10) and no further issues. Very economical solution (under $100) and sense of pride with fixing applianmce myself. This web page was very informative and saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks!

The repair went fairly smooth following the directions that came with the damper pad kit from partselect.com. It only took as long as it did because the glue has to dry for the pads and it takes a few minutes to scrape off the old pads and glue. this can definitely be done by a first time do it yourselfer. Pliers are needed to remove a spring hose clamp in the back of the washer drum. Two 4x4's are needed to rest the washer drum on in order to gain access to the pads (in directions provided).

Exactly as shown in your provided video from You Tube. What a life saver. The description of needed tools, and the fact that the main nuts securing the tub were REVERSE thread! I would not have suspected that and probably would still be beating on them, tightening them rather than loosening them!It is worth the price to purchase the spanner wrench (correct style), used to remove those tub nuts. Thanks for the great service and the video. Well done!

I followed the video provided. The video was very clear and helpful.

followed video from your website. Nut does not come off as easy as your video shows.

watched video, ordered parts, parts arrived fast in two days, watched video again, Repaired washer saved money

The repair went well.I had to replace the seal under the tub.The video was the key to my success,I did not have a spanner wrench,I don't think it would have helped anyway,The nut was corroded I had to drill holes and chisel it apart after that it was no problem.

I did an internet search for a leaking washer and came across this web site.I looked under my washer model and it showed the repair parts plus it has a video of a repairman doing the job.The video was none the less the best help I could ever imagine.Tools needed and how to do the job a step at a time.The parts came to my door in two days via regular shipping method.I also purchased the special SPANNER WRENCH on eBay for about 10 bucks and it showed up the same day as my parts.The job took me about a hour and now my washer works like it should with no leaks.Thanks to Parts Select I highly recommend this site and their my new lifesaver. Ciao, Steve M

I googled "washer leaking water" and found some videos which then lead to PartSelect. I had a bit if difficulty finding my parts, but with help of the PartSelect customer service I was able to get what I needed along with some more instructions. I ended up replacing all the hoses, the drain pump and the siphon break. My washer is back in use and my floor is dry. PartSelect is now in my Favorites List.

The video was very usefull> however could not find the (specialty tool) as seen on You tube the nut was so corroded that it would not of helped anyway. Used punch and hammer.Make sure you back out the locking set screw all the way out other wise it may strip threads. Overall the repair went well. But only lasted 2 weeks and started to leak again. May be due to worn bearing? Not sure Getting new washer instead of repairing this one. I would also order the bearing too if the washer has been leaking for any legth of time,Good luck.

I took the front off by removing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. I leaned the washer backwards and blocked the front up about 6 - 8 inches. Next I loosened the three screws that hold the pump on. Then remove the belt. Now it is time to get the hoses off by taking the clamps loose. Wiggle the hose and pull them off. You need a small bowel and towels to collect the water in the hoses. The final step is to take out the three screws that you already loosened that hold the pump on. The pump can now be lifted up and removed. Replace the pump with the new one and reverse the procedure.