MAH14PNBEW Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I took off the door and the front of the washing machine. Then, took off the bracket of the soap dispensing bin from the top of the machine. Then lift up the top of the machine, and unscrew the bracket that holds the wax motots, label and pull wires, replace motors and wires and put back together. This is also a good time to clean and dust the interior of the machine. Before replacing, my motor smelled and looked burnt out, instead of paying $300 -$400 to have someone look at it, I investigated and I fixed it for around $30. I hope I get to inspire people to figure things out and save some cash!!

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

Unscrewed old screws, removed old plastic pieces, and replaced

I am happy when PartSelect included the instruction video, so I completed my repair that easy. Thanks the PartSelect. Davis Dao

When I looked up the part number, there was an installation video on the same page. I ordered the part then and there, and once it arrived, I put the iPad right on top of the machine and paused the video whenever I was doing the steps. It was TOO EASY!

It was very easy...we ordered the part and it only took a day and a half and it was here.

My 16 yr old son replaced the door boot. He said it was very easy although the wire was alittle tricky. But all in all it was very easy for him. Saved me alot of money.

I follwoed the detailed instructions provided via the Part Select web page and instructional video. This information was very helpful. I printed the step by step paper instructions and had them available at the washer. They were very easy to understand. By doing this work myself I saved a $100.00 repair service call and installation cost and another $30.00 on parts. This resulted $130.00 ++ savings and 30 minutes of my time. Thanks for the great help and guidance!!

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

Basically the problem was the bearing replacement. Although you cant get them on PartsSelect, I got the seal kit on the site. The seal kit is easy, the bearings took two days and an air hammer to extract them and a big hammer to get them back in. All in all it was worth it,

removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!