LAT9304AGL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

Found instructions at this web site, got part in a couple days, changed Lid Check Switch in 15 minutes, washer was up and running again. Best website for fixing stuff I've seen!

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.

To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.

Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.

I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.

Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!

Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

Agitator motor burned out -- purchased new one through Parts Direct (parts still available) 4 bolts and plug and play wire harness and now runs like new.

Started with removing 4 screws on the top of the control panel. Once open, I found the schematic taped to the top. I traced the wires and found the 2 wires to test. I unplugged them and attached the jumper wire. Turn on machine and it worked. Ordered the part( it came in in about 3 days. First disconnect the power. The micro switch is mounted with 2 screws, remove these and as you disconnect the wires , attach them to the new switch, put it back in place and reattach the screws. Test .

First I took the seals out of the box they came in and let them hang on a hanger to get all the kinks out of them for a few days. Then I started at the corners of the refrigerator doors and peeled the old seals off on one door then replaced the seal by using my thumbs pushing at the corners first and once I had all four corners in I worked my way around the rest of the door, After both doors were done I used a hairdryer to expand the seals against the refrigerator case to make sure it seals tight.

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

It was really quite simple. I found out where the leak was coming from by taking off the front panel and running the washer through the drain cycle. PartSelect website was right on for what part I needed and delivered it promptly. The installation video from PartSelect couldn't have been more clear. I removed a few screws from the back of the washer and installed the new part in about 1 hour. All was good.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

After reading partselect.com and a few other web sites, I thught the leak was either a hose clamp, hose, or syphon break.

1. Two screws at the bottom front are removed,
2. Bottom front moved away from the machine unitl the top clips allow it to come off.
3. Remove 2 hex head screws from the lid (look up, use a nut driver or I used a socket.
4. LIft the lid from the front (similar to lifting a car hood)
5. Syphon Break is in the top back right.
6. 4 screws in the back and a hose clamp that connects to the pump.
7. Put it all back together in reverse.

I had considered replacing the hoses while I was at it, but they all looked fine. Suggest you order the Syphone Break "Kit" because it contains clamp, and ring gasket that is between the break and the discharge elbow.

Works Great! Saved myself at least $150 in service call and parts markup.

I followed video instructions which were very helpful and getting to the lid switch assembly was not difficult. After putting it on we still had nothing. I noticed there was quite a bit a corrision on the connecters so we cleaned those with fine emery paper, reconnected them and like magic , the washer is back in business. I was very surprised the part arrived about 36 hours after I placed the order and in just a couple of hours at the most we had a working washer again.I've got partselect.com saved in my favorites for any future diy repairs needed.??