LAT9304AGL Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.

Very easy, and simple. Replaced part that was sent. It was a simple process, open control panel, unplug machine. Unscrewed the old part, attached the new part and starting working right away. I am very impressed with this company and the speed they shipped the parts. Will continue to use if needed and tell everyone about this site.

I called a local repair service and they wanted 95 bucks for the first 30 minuets. Any thing over that was an additional 45 bucks per half hour, plus parts. Since the washer was 19 years old I thought it would cost around 300 big ones to get it repaird. We could buy a new similar model for about 550 bucks so I said, what the heck. I'll invest the 18 bucks to see if this 80 year old can fix it. The repair instruction I read on your on line were perfect. FIXED IN ABOUT 20 MINUETS.Installed the lid switch, saved a bundle and maybe another 19 years on the washer. Thanks a bunch. Walt Apple Valley Mn

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

Hi there,
I received the parts from you in short period of time,
take its out 4 screw with screw drivers,
Open the pannel, unscrew one nut with nut driver, take it out Lid assembly
I put it in myself, It worked wonderful,
I do appreciate your service in " Do-it-Yourself" system.

Thanks,

Harry Lin

Followed above listed advice on replacing

I saw on internet that it was the lid switch and how to fix it. On this machine I have replaced timer and belts, machine is 22 years old.
A bowling friend of my father, was a Magtag repairman and salesman. For years showed me how to fix my Sears washer and dryer. When he sold me a Magtag washer and dryer, he said it was a great machine.By the way my dad worked for Easy Washer in Syracuse, They invented the spin cycle, ask Whirlpool.
ED

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

Removed the front panel with a screw driver, removed the old bumpers with a pair of pliers, replaced the bumpers and replaced the panel. All was very simple and took no time. The video on your website was most helpful. Thanks

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!

I watched the video suggested by Part Select, it was easy to follow. I had first changed the belts because they were worn but that wasn't the problem, the next suggestion was the lid switch assembly which was the answer. This washer was produced in 1989 and works like new again!