MTW6700TQ1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed back panel, checked resistance across the thermal fuse. found no continuity, ordered fuse from Parts Select and it arrived in 3 days. removed one 1/4" hex cap screw holding fuse in place, removed 2 electric connections noting position. installed new fuse. this took a total of 10 minutes, excluding wait time for the part.
Please note, the cause of the thermal fuse melting was 10+ years of lint build up in the exhaust manifold. There is no point in replacing the fuse without addressing the cause, while we clean the lint filter regularly, the lint buildup in the manifold was appalling and glad the fuse worked. Removing the manifold and cleaning it out took another hour, but worth the time and effort.

lifted top using putty knife to push back holding clips.secured top so it did not fall. moved basket to one corner and lifted the spring up, while it was lifted remove the plastic holding rings. Then push down on holding clips that are near bottom of side of basket and the suspension rod just eases out. do that for all 4 and you are done.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

fairly simple remove and put back in …I watched a video of a similar Maytag pump replace got some tips…the electoral connection is shielded by a pull up tab…so it was quite simple I got extra hose clamps in case?…didn’t need them

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.

Well i watched a video on youtube that demonstrated the repair, and it seemed easy enough, so i ordered the parts which arrived quickly enough that we avoided a trip to the laundry mat, very cool! So i did just what they said to do, unplug machine, tape down the lid, use a putty knife to pop the retaining springs in front. I used a long screwdriver to hold up rod on top and then rotate the ball around and let the rod fall through, them i used a yard stick to pop out cup on bottom. I did have assistance holding the drum back so i could see, Then i reversed the process with a new rod. The only reason it took 30 min was i did not put the cups under the balls on top, because it didnt have them in the first place, i decided to put them in after then reading the instructions. The machine runs like new, and my wife is very happy!!

we ordered a motor controller,pop out the old one,then replaced it with the one we ordered,and bingo,problem is solved

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.

First unplug electrical, disconnect all hoses. If there is a large volume of water left in the machine you need to get it out.Pull machine out so you will have room to work. Lay machine front face down. Remove drive belt, inspection cover.Take the hose clamps back up the hose,remove hoses from pump. Remove the three screws that hold the pump in place.Replace pump, take steps back as you removed the pump to restore machine to operation.Total time 45 min. I am old and slow.

removed glass cover control panel & top of machine to replace hinge spring.

Removed cover and removed rods,replacing them one at a time.

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.

Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.