MAT12CSEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Tilt washer. Remove old belts. Put in new. Tighten transmission bet and pump belt per YouTube. It works like new now.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

We were not sure if the problem was the belts since they were not completely broken or overly worn down, but decided to try to put new ones on given the burning rubber smell and some light smoke coming from beneath the washer when it was on the spin cycle and the drum would not spin. We found some how to videos online and through the part select customer experiences, we ordered the belts and got them within 2 days. We put the new belts on, which is fairly easy and quick to do with the proper tools once you get the front panel of the washer off. The new belts seemed to have done the trick, as the washer began spinning again with no odd sounds or smells once the new belts were installed, and it has been running great so far. I highly recommend ordering from this site, as the parts are the real factory parts and are easy to find an order based on your appliance model. I found the pricing and convenience, as well as knowing the parts would be right and the best quality, to be the best part of this site, as ordering from other online retailers may land you with the wrong parts or kits with parts you don't necessarily need.

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.

Unhooked water and drain lines, Unplugged electrical. Removed the two phillips screws at the bottom of the front cover. Removed the Front cover. TIpped machine backwards at about a 45 degree angle using a 2x4 to support the machine. Removed the pump belt and the drive belt. Installed the old pump belt and the new drive belt. Loosened the 3 each 5/16" bolts holding the pump mechanism and moved pump to the left. Moved pump to right to tighten pump belt and tightened the left pump bolt. Loosend the one pump bolt and pulled the motor to the left to tighten the drive belt and holding in this position I tightened the pump screws, Pump belt was now looser than the drive belt. Ran washer and it worked perfectly.

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.

Received wrong springs for my model had too use combo old spring with the two new (too long) springs to get the tension on the belts. For now it working. Did not contact you due shipping took so long and two delay date change by FedEx ground. I didn't want to go thru another delivery nightmare. Thanks for the time.

Tilt the washer sideways. Remove belts,Remove front panel, loosen two hoses, loosen three small nuts. Take out old pump and install new new pump vise versa. Video provided by partselect very helpful.

Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .