SAV515DAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

I had previously done a partial tear down on the machine to see if I thought I could do the repair. The dealer try's to scare you with warnings about special tools etc. Looked OK and after reading other comments on this site, I thought I would try. The only comment that I would add to what has already said is that you should have the recommended sealer or an equivalent sealer. I used weatherstrip adhesive that I had on hand. Hope that it holds up! Like it says in the directions, the seal will lift up if there is too much sealer under the lip of the seal. Just hold down the seal with a weight until the adhesive sets up and then it will stay. I've fixed cars for 30 years and this was an easy repair comparable to replacing wheel bearings.

I had no problem replacing the triple lip seal and bearing. I cracked the plastic tub, which after 10 years was very britle and cracked in two places ON THE SIDE. To remove the bearing I had to improvise a bearing removal tool using a puller I had on hand and a 1 lb metal coffee can. It worked great! You need to use some type of pulling device to remove the bearing without damaging the tub.

After receiving the new hose we replaced the hose and tested the washer by running a rinse cycle. The new hose fixed the problem.

Hardest thing was moving washing machine away from wall. Two screws on panel. One screw for hose.

Unplug and disconnect Power, Drain and h20 connections. Removed front panel, disconnected internal electricrical connections and capicitor from washer. Remove 11 (I think) screws connecting outer cover to base. Remove pull drain hose through the outer cover and hold the end lower that the washer to drain the excess h20. Remove the hoses from the pump and outer tub. Remove outer cover from base exposing the guts. Grab the bottom of the agitator and pull up pretty hard. Agitator will pop off, watch your head. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the Inner tub to the hub. Remove seal from top of transmission spline. You will need a 38mm deep well socket to remove the nut from the top of the transmission. I used a socket and a impact wrench to remove the nut. Remove the teflon seal that is below the nut. You will need a puller and/or grinder to remove the hub from the transmission spline. My puller broke, so I ended up using an air grinder to cut a couple of pizza slices out of the hub. Then I used an air hammer to break the slices off of the hub. Once it is cut the cast aluminum is quite brittle. Pull what remains of the hub off of the transmission spline. Remove the bolts that connect the transmission housing to the outer tub. Remove the 3 bolts from the underside of the outer tub that connect the outer tub to the upper bearing. using a set of vice grips, grab the top of the springs that connect the outer tub to the base and carefully remove them one by one.
The outer tub should slide right off. Remove the bearing from the transmission. Supplies that you will most likely need are the 3m800 sealant, when you get this you will only need a little around the bottom of the lip where the new seal attaches to the bottom of the outer tub. You will also want to get the Seal tool which will ensure that the seal that goes around the top of the transmission spline is seated properly. Assemble in reverse order but keep in mind to attach tub bolts prior to attaching the springs. Also keep in mind that both maytag and amana make a washer with the same model number LWA80AW. Check to see which one you are ordering for. The kits are different. Don't ask me how I know. Just make sure you get the correct kit the first time, it will save you a whole lot of head scratching.

had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great

This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.

The person who wrote in on how he did his repair on the timer was perfect. I would have replaced the time on my own but I would have taken longer. Instead, I followed his instructions and finished in a little over 15 minutes.I like how you print people's instructions. It definetly helps the next person. I also like your set as well Tks.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

pulled washer out and unpluged it removed 6 screw removed old timer and put in new one.

Washer was full of water when it finally quit so I had to remove the front panels first so I could manuver the top to get to the back of the control panel. Remove the five screws from the back of the control panel. Pop off the cover on the timer knob. Pull the button from the center of the knob once the cover is off . Remove knob. Inside the control panel there is one screw holding the timer in place remove that and slide timer towards the center of machine ,remove electrical connector and it should be out.And remember to unplug machine first!!!!!

Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.

Took 3 different tools to take plate oof. Phillips head on top, flat head on bottom and nut driver for the timer.7 screws, 3 tools!

Removed spring, then hoses and then belts. When all was removed we loosen the old washer pump and installed the new pump. Everything was re-installed and was put to wash. At first it leaked water that was already sitting there, but then it work like new. Oh I also read the instruction on this website, I recommend the site to everyone!!