MAH21PNDGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I removed the rear access panel, used a nut driver and pliers to remove the old hose. I tried to connect the new hose with the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. I gave up on that after a few attepmts because the clamp was very hard to manipulate with standard pliers. I used a standard screw type hose clamp (2") that I had instead. The tub end was easier because a standard hose clamp was used there already. The washer no longer leaks, and I saved a lot of money by doing the job myself!

Followed instructions that came with replacement part, good as new!

My husband, a mechanical engineer, kept forgetting to take all the brackets out to hold the screws in place and therefore had to take it apart several times to put the brackets in. Difficult time getting some of the parts out of old door to use in new one without breaking them as most were made of plastic. Washing machine works fine now.

Replaced the inside door panel. Who needs a Maytag repairman! Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the door removed the hinges removed the screws holding the inner door in place removed all the parts under the inner door put everything back together in the opposit order from taking it out replaced the door wala! finished

removed screws holding inside panel switched clips and reset and replaced screws in outer door panel. Now works with no leaks

It was very easy...we ordered the part and it only took a day and a half and it was here.

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.

removed front of washer. loosened two hose clamps. replaced hose. tightened clamps. replaced front cover.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

First thing I did was watch the video the parts company provided. It was concise and kept me from calling the appliance repair man to come right out. It looked easy enough for this 60 plus year old woman to accomplish. The steps they showed were right on. The only part I would emphasize is the rubber grommet can be installed upside down. If it is the air circulator will not fit in. Left me scratching my head for a minute or two. Once that was in the right way it was a done deal. If I had put that in right the first time the replacement would have taken half the time. What a great company!

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

Ordered a new inner panel and had my son in-law put it in for me. He is a mechanic so it was a quick an easy fix.

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!