MAV6451AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Turn off water and unplug washer. Use putty knife to release the catches in order to lift the top. Remove the screw that holds the entire assembly to the back of the washer. Pull the valve assembly forward in order to make the remaining repairs easier. Next remove the screw that allows you to separate the front water difuser from the valve bracket. The last is a phillips screw that holds the valve/solenoid to the mounting bracket. Reverse these steps to install the new part.

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

Unplug the A/C plug from outlet.
Turn off the hot and cold water valves.
Disconnect the hot and cold water inlet hoses from the back of machine.
Raise top cover of washing machine by inserting flat screwdriver about 3 inches in from right and left front corners and push against clips. (look in gap between top cover and cabinet to locate exact location of clips.
With 1/4 inch nut driver remove 1 screw holding water valve to cabinet.
With 1/4 inch nut driver remove 1 screw holding water valve to bracket.
Place new water valve in bracket and tighten screw.
Noting orintation transfer wire harness from old valve to new.
Reattach valve bracket to cabinet with one screw.Lower lid.Reattach hot and cold water hoses to valves(note hot and cold). Turn on water, plug in a/c cord. Test to make sure water valve shuts off, and check for leaks where you connected hot and cold hoses.
Congradulations, you saved $160 labor and a discount on the part.


Now remove

First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Tried to remove brake stator with machine tilted back. Thisforced the stator off center. Removed the 6 holddown springs, water level hose and drain hose. Pull drum & transmission out of the case. Placed the drun on the ground, brake facing up. Replaced the short screws on the brake stator with 2" screws one at a time. Caution the spring has 200 lbs of force. Used 2" screws to back off spring. With spring tenshion released replace parts. Reversed proceedurer. Machine quite. Wife is happy.

Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool. Put belt back on. . . Done. . No more beating itself to death.

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

Removed excess water,removed hoses,tiped back washer,removed belt,removed pulley and bearing. Removed 3 screws and replaced with 3 longer screws in the stator,then removed 3 shorter screws. Then loosen very slowly each of longer screws to relieve pressure from the brake spring. Once loose,pulled out brake rotor. Replaced with new parts. Works like new.

It was basically a plug-in. modular job, since the timer unit is all of one piece. Not brain surgery.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

There are two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Releasing these clips allows you to lift the top; it is hinged at the back. Then remove two screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. The tub to pump hose is easily accessible. It is held in place by a hose clamp at each end. Use pliers to squeeze the clamps and remove the hose. Replace with new hose. I re-used the original clamps.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..