LAT7300ABX Maytag Washer - Instructions

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

The replacement of the Water Inlet Valve supplied by PartSelect (model PS60378) was too easy.
The key issue was to remove previously the whole upper cover of the washer machine, including the Control Panel, and disconnect all the cables from the electronic Control Board, in order to work easy and freely to remove the inner water hose that is connected to the water inlet valve, working from inside and not from outside of the machine.
Care must be taken writing a notepad of the position of every cable, for not making mistakes when reconnecting them to the Control Panel.

My Maytag A308 is about 25 yrs old and has been filling by a trickle for a while - both hot and cold. I replaced the water valve and that fixed the hot. Cold still running slow. I switched the hoses, thinking one might be clogged, and determined that the cold shut-off was clogged. I replaced that with a ball-valve - about $10 - and it works like it used to. My advice to anyone who installs a shut-off to any fixture - sink, toilet, w-machine, etc - NOT to use a cheap washer-type valve - they tend to freeze up over time and do not close when needed. Same for clean-out drain on hot water heaters.

Water valve on the A308 was accessible and easy to replace. Required rotation of solenoids was easy and connections were obvious. PartSelect
pictures were very useful and price was better than other on-line sources.

Ron

Read repair stories on website. Removed front & top to find leak, Ordered part. Replaced valve. Had trouble with clamp.It only caught in first slot, then broke. Had to go to hardware for one slightly larger.

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have more access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

Followed video that came with part.

I order a water inlet valve from this site It was the best buy around. The email from the site part came with a video how to change it. It was a 15 minute job. One 5/16 nut driver to remove the inlet valve and pliers to remove the hoes from the valve. Easy off easy on.

Watched your video and followed your instructions and it was very simple.We bought our maytag washer in 1988 next year it will be 30 years old we raised 3 children and for $21 and your video I hope to it last another 30 years

I watched your 'how to' video, then repeated the procedure on my own machine. The repair went pretty much like the video. The new valve corrected the problem, and in fact, fills the washer faster than the old valve. I also replaced the water supply hoses, as one started to leak after I jiggled it around during the repair. Very satisfied with the this sites experience.

removed cover, disconnected small water tube and disconnected electrical connections. Reversed above to install new piece. two nutdrivers required. Channel locks for supply hoses.

Terrified that the washer water value would blow due to the noise... Diagnosed the problem, ordered the part and it took only 10 minutes to fix. The hardest part was moving the washer in the confined space, which required moving the driver out and sliding the washer at a 45° angle in order to reach the access panel. Once access gained it was straight forward. Step 1 removed fill hoses from supply. Backed the valve assembly out; detached water hose from value assembly with nut driver; detached wires'; value released; added new value and reverse process. Checked for leaks, reassembled fill hoses with new washers (stainless steel hose), ran cycle, checked for leaks, replaced washer in original position Need commend the video producer and repair person in the video. The narrative gave me the confidence that, Yes, I can do this.

Unplug machine and remove drain hose clamp and hose from rear of the machine.Using Phillips head screw driver remove the 2 screws from the lower front panel of washer. Lift and remove front panel. Using a small socket, remove 2 screws from the inside top left and right of machine which secures the machines top cover and lift cover up (use duct tape to secure washer lid from opening). At the inside rear top of the machine is the Siphon Break Connector. Loosen clamps, remove old Siphon Break Connector and install new one. Reinstall top cover, front panel and then drain hose.

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.