MAH3000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

I was sick when I heard the noise from our washer. I looked online at new ones and found out it was going to cost between $1000 to $1500 to replace it. While looking online I found the PartSelect site. Unbelievable! I put in the model #, read the posts, ordered the parts and within a few days they were in. Using the video and the posted instructions I took it apart and replaced the bearings and seals. The whole thing took about 3 hours and we were back to washing clothes. Total repair costs were about $160 to $180. Compared to the price of a new washer, you guys saved the day.

Being a seventy five year old man I was reluctant to taking on this job but after getting prices for the repair or replacing the machine I cringed and trying to save some money I took on this job.Got all the information I could find on line I got started.Taking machine apart was easy and remembering to keep parts separated is something I learned from my mechanical back round is a must.Pictures also help.Taking out spinner drum easy.Bearings a nightmare If you don't have a bearing removal tool.Front bearing had to be cut out with a dremel tool and zip wheel being careful not to destroy the race.Removed spindel from spinner drum as I could see that for me to put shaft in hole would have been a problem.Put new improved seal in.Easy part.Reassembled. Springs and clips hard.Washing again and quiet.Wife happy four days later.Old guy sore.All done with outer tub in machine.Estimated savings Big,Big,Big.Getting big steak dinner and big kiss.

The replacement was not complicated. It took me more time because the details are not in the videos and I had to do it twice because I didn't get the seal on correctly the first time. I used the Neptune videos available on you tube for the basics. Use the "inspecting front door lock wax motor" video for a start, but be sure to take off the top front crosspiece also for easier access to the spring that tensions the seal retainer cable. You don't have to disconnect any wires, just lay the door lock assembly gently to the left of the washer. The old seal comes off very easily, using the front loader door seal video. My washer was an early one without the drain tube so I had to get the drain tube and clamps separately and drill out the tub nipple to the left below the seal. I used the biggest drill bit I had that fit inside the nipple. The tub is plastic and very easy to drill. Most of the plastic shavings will come out toward you if you drill slowly and don't push too hard on the drill. I also used my shop vac to try and get out any other shavings. I used dish washing liquid as a lubricant to help put the seal on and used too much. It doesn't take very much. The spring that tightens the inner seal clamp/cable was very hard to attach and it did require two locking pliers [vise-grips] and quite a lot of effort. You have to hook one end of the spring to the cable that wraps around the seal, hold the other end of the cable with locking pliers, the free end of the spring with locking pliers, and stretch the spring to hook it to the free end of the cable. There are some other methods described in various forums and one of them might work better for you. When I was an auto mechanic we had a special tool that helped attach springs like this on drum brakes. I was sure wishing that tool was still in my tool chest but it was not. This was the most difficult part for me, getting the cable and spring all in place and stretching the spring without dislodging the seal and having to start all over.I didn't get the seal aligned correctly the first time and had to do it over after putting ever thing back together and washing a load of clothes. I could have avoided that by carefully inspecting the seal before I put everything together. When you put it back together the end of that red or green nylon line that looks like weed eater line goes under the soap/bleach dispenser bezel on the top so you can manually open the door if the wax motor goes bad and it won't unlock.

Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Followed the PartsSelect video for the seal replacement, which was step by step and spot on, I just had to add the bearing replacement part myself. Once it was dissembled I drove each bearing out by tapping them with the hammer and drift. My model had no bearing retainer ring. I did not remove the outer drum from the washer. Clean the aluminum hub real well, scrape it with a utility knife to remove corrosion, wipe with a solvent soaked rag, etc. I disagree with other methods ive seen while researching, like a wire brush in a drill, because you will remove aluminum material from the hub and the bearing wont fit as tightly as designed. tap in the rear bearing til fully seated. I did the rear first because gravity then held the spacer in place. Set the spacer in place, noting that one end is "flared" to a larger diameter, so it seats against the larger race of the front bearing. Align and start the front bearing in place. The spacer needs to align with the bearings so it bears against the inner races of the bearings. So to hold it in place I rolled up a piece of light cardstock, slid it thru the spacer and bearing, and as it "uncoiled" it aligned the spacer. Pretty well. I did have to tap the spacer a little with the drift after the bearings were in, but just a little. After that, back to the video for the seal and reassembly. Only other comment I have is to locate the bearings early. I ended up going to grainger for one and Napa for the other. And no one could seem to cross the "DU" part of the original NGK bearing. The DU means it just has seals on both sides. Pretty standard stuff. That could have been easier. Also hold off ordering extra parts. I have found PartsSelect is really quick getting stuff out. I ordered an inner drum because i heard from other research that that could cause the banging noise. My banging noise was from one bearing disinegrating and the balls breaking up inside the hub. Shipping the drum back cost 70. UPS wanted 160. So that could have gone better, but I didn't want to let the machine sit too long. Next time I'll let it sit a couple days.

Removed tub replaced bearings. Put in new seal. Be aware drawing on instruction shows seal cup instaled from wrong side of seal. Other wise went well. Got bearings from McMaster Carr.

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

Replaced wax motor. You must also replace R11 (3.9 Ohm carbon film resistor (1/4 watt), Q6 Triac (Mouser 526-NTE5656), replaced Jp 18 (jumper) with a fuse (Mouser 576-0251.500HAT1l. This job requires the use of a solder sucker in order to remove parts without lifting up cooper traces.I have had experience with many electronic projects,and could have done this one easier if I still had the proper tools.A solder sucker is cheap, and without it, you will damage the traces. I did, but used a continuity checker to verify I made solder contact with the traces. I have six of these stacked washer/dryers. All failed after about a year of use. I am in absolute disbelief regarding all the stories about how easy this repair is.

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

I followed the video which I might say is somewhat misleading for the Maytag Neptune washing machine. This is the one with a recall due to mildew and mold build up on the Door Seal (Bellow). First to take it apart you really need a 8mm socket in order to get into tight spaces. Once you start using the socket everything will come apart quickly the last being removing the old Bellow. I found this is easy if you just roll the spring toward the front using a screw driver. Once it clears the front of the Bellow, the cable will fall off along with the spring. You can now remove the old Bellow. The next step is to insert the new Bellows on the rim of the tube. I started by attaching the drain hose at the bottom and then from the video, started at the top make sure you have it center correctly and worked down one side pushing the Bellows on the rim and then do the same thing to the other side part way. Alternating from one side to the other until you reach the bottom. The Bellow is now on the tube, NOW the hard part. First, the old spring was stretched. I bought a new spring at Home Depot. I next took the cable and placed it around the tube with the ends at the top. Make sure to thread the cable carefully so it is in place. Watch out for plugs and the drain at the bottom of the tube. I attempted to attach the spring by myself using a long nose plier and a Grip plier but just could not stretch is far enough by myself as shown in the video. I next took a 16 ga insulated wire you could also get at Home Depot and attached it to each end of the cable and twisted it together in the middle with pliers so it was tight and cut off the excess wire. I attached one end of the spring through the right eyelet on the cable and using the grip pliers and BOTH hands on the grip pliers pull the spring and threaded it through the left eyelet. Hold the spring in place I now pushed the stretched spring against the back lip of the tube. I removed the 16 ga wire buy cutting off the ends and carefully pulling it away. Next, I just followed the video. I pushed all the tabs on the Bellow in to the holes on the tub and then screwed the parts back in reverse order. Good Luck Al

I followed the video for the installation. I did find that installing the spring was no way as easy as it looked in the video. Otherwise, OK.

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.