MAT14CSBGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Watched the video on your site for that part

very easy, pop up the top, unscrew 2 screws, unplug switch , plug in new switch replace 2 screws ,put top down,finished

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed hoses. Unscrewed the 2 screws on the back of the control panel and folding it up. Took off the 2 metal ties to get the cabinet off. Once off, I unscrewed the ground from the old Lid Switch and popped out. Put the new Lid Switch in, screwed the ground back in, replaced cabinet, clamps, put the control panel back in place and screwed the 2 screws on back of the control panel back in. Screwed the hoses back on, plugged the washer back in, everything works great again.

Replaced suspension, leveling and tub springs.

Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.

I was in need of a second washer to wash heavily soiled clothes my daughter in law younger sister was throwing one away so I asked what was wrong with it and was told it wouldn't spin so I thought it would be an easy fix I brought the washer home did a quick check and with the internet guide I was able to determine the problem I ordered the part and thank god once the part arrived I was able to do the repair within minutes now I have a second washer to due heavily soiled clothes and no more trips to the laundry mat thanks a million to your step by step guide couldn't have done it with out you

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

FIRST, I went to the wrong web site, and thought based upon their diagnostics that I had a sock stuck in the pump. The machine would run, but not pump nor spin. Further, I had no idea precisely how to get at the pump, which is located at the front to the machine. Bailed 20+ gallons of water, and a full load of wet clothes out, took the machine apart from the back (precisely opposite to the correct approach) and took the pump out--no socks, pump OK. Searched with the machine Model # and found Parts Select, and its help video, statistical analysis, and feedback. I jumped the broken switch, so I could wash clothes (a cheap piece of whirlpool engineering dedicated to the appliance repair trade's pension plans, no doubt), put the machine back together, and ordered the part off the web site page with the repair video. Wrong part showed up two shipping days later, and after talking to customer service, they shipped the correct part, received two days later. Took me less than 20 minutes to install the right part. It took me at least 45 minutes to repack the wrong part, drive to the post office, and then I had to pay postage, and am still waiting to get my $37 back--oh, and I am out the money for the right part while waiting to get my money back for the wrong part, and paying postage to send it back--and for $4 gas to get back and forth to the post office, and spending my time correcting the part of the problem not of my making. Prolly net/net I will still be monetarily better off than having called an appliance repair guy and getting a stiff bill for the house call, and full retail for the part.This web site nailed the problem based upon my symptoms--and I ordered the part shown in the video that was identical to what was broken in my machine, but was initially sent something else. If I had found this web site first, I would have saved myself three hours of figuring out how to take the machine apart backwards without ruining anything in the process, and removing a pump that was fine. Putting it back together after viewing the video took 15 minutes.....the only down side of my experience was getting sent the wrong part (a lid switch that did not fit my machine, and did not match what the tech was removing in the video--one with the three long lead wires, ground wire) and paying postage and taking my time to repack and mail.

followed repair instruction,( bought on line and down loaded ) some instructions were unclear but when you have the machine apart its obvious. your parts breakdown helped more than the instructions once the cabinet was opened.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.