MAT14PDAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Looked on line and found the cheapest repair for my symptoms seemed to be the tub wear pads. Disconnected the washer, tilted it to where I could inspect the pads and discovered one was missing. So ordered a set, (Only complaint was the shipping was as much as the part). Parts arrived in 2 Days (!). Tilted the washing machine again...reached up with a small flathead screw driver and pryed the old pads off...snapped the new ones on (takes a little pressure, so eat your wheeties)...and job done. Stood everything back up and re-connected hoses, drain and plug...Works like brand new...Unfortunately for the wife who thought she was going to get a new one....LOL

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

well my Dearest Kenmore washer was vibrating badly so i looked the part in yoursite of parts select it diagnosed it i ordered the 2 different supension pads relaced then and now my Dearest kemore washer works like new again Thankyou Parts select for all your help and the price was perfect...

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

followed repair instruction,( bought on line and down loaded ) some instructions were unclear but when you have the machine apart its obvious. your parts breakdown helped more than the instructions once the cabinet was opened.

Watched the video on your site for that part

Since I had taken the washer apart before to find the problem, it was easier to remove the cabinet.Four screws and a electic connection. I remove the cabinet to get to the balance ring.I removed the tub ring by releaseing the catches and pried off the ring. Installation was just the reverse. Had some trouble putting the cabinet back whereit needs to be but once I got it the rest of the job was easy.

Replaced broken and worn wear pads per online instruction.also replace tub springs and counterweight spring.all very simple.

Unplugged the washer and removed the two screws from the control panel. Raised the control panel and disconnected the wire connector that connected to the top.Then removed the two spring clips that hold the cabinet to the back of the washer. removed the cabinet from the washer that exposed the frame of the washer. I then replaced the broken spring by pushing the tub of the washer as far as it would go and replaced the suspension spring. Then i reinstalled the cabinet and control panel. Everything worked okay. ood as new.