MAT14CSAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer from the electrical receptacle. Remove one phillip screw on each side from the rear of the control panel and one hexnut with plastic strap from the rear of the control panel on each side. Pull control panel towards the front of the washer. Locate gray lid switch on the top left, rear side. Remove metal grounding screw with green wire from the metal top of the washer. Detach the gray lid switch from the electrical module and remove entire switch. At this time, open the washer machine lid carefully and gently install the new lid switch. Reattach the ground wire and metal screw to the chassis. Put control panel back in it's original location, carefully align each of the rear side phillip screws and tighten. Do the same with the two hex nuts and plastic strap. Close lid and remember to plug the washer back in to the electrical receptacle. Start the washer with your normal procedure! It should now start!!! Good luck!

removed the two screws from the back of the dial bar on the top of the washer. removed original unit, and install the new unit.

Unplugged washer. Used paint scrapper to pop each side of control panel loose. Used nut driver to remove grounding screw. Pulled small gray tab toward front to pop switch loosen switch and pop it out. Lowered lid about half way to ensure cover arm engaged the switch as I snapped switch into switch cut out. Tighened ground screw with nut driver and plugged washer back into wall outlet. Snapped control panel back down.

Unscrew the screws from the back of the control panel and lift the panel back. The lid switch is on the top left side of the washer. I unscrewed the ground wire, lift the lid switch out and replaced it. Then I reversed the whole process to put it all back. All being three srews and the lid switch. There was no need to remove anything else. It could not have been any easier.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

well my Dearest Kenmore washer was vibrating badly so i looked the part in yoursite of parts select it diagnosed it i ordered the 2 different supension pads relaced then and now my Dearest kemore washer works like new again Thankyou Parts select for all your help and the price was perfect...

Looked on line and found the cheapest repair for my symptoms seemed to be the tub wear pads. Disconnected the washer, tilted it to where I could inspect the pads and discovered one was missing. So ordered a set, (Only complaint was the shipping was as much as the part). Parts arrived in 2 Days (!). Tilted the washing machine again...reached up with a small flathead screw driver and pryed the old pads off...snapped the new ones on (takes a little pressure, so eat your wheeties)...and job done. Stood everything back up and re-connected hoses, drain and plug...Works like brand new...Unfortunately for the wife who thought she was going to get a new one....LOL

After repair, had to re-align the front head of the cabinet several times to get it to slide in correctly.I saved myself the cost of a repair service call. Followed instructions at the following youtube.

Removed the top part of the electronic panel. Removed the top lid. Removed the old tub springs and replaced them with new ones. Works great and for only $20.00. It beats buying a new washer. Thanks!

After removing the front, sides and top of the machine (all one piece) the springs were relativley easy to access. I discover one of the brakets that held one of the springs had rusted and would no longer support the spring. I then replaced the bracket and springs. I Re-assyembled the machine and it work as good as new.

I unplugged washer, then, removed the control panel with two screws on back, slid unit back and up. Unscrewed ground screw and unplugged harness, lifted lid and removed switch. In order to re-install lid switch, lid has to be in the up position, otherwise it will not fit properly. Reattach harness and ground screw, then control panel. Plug and go. My wife says that the washer works better than ever. Very easy! Saves money!

The lid switched arrived as indicated by the order information. Pulling the washer out to remove the rear panel was the most difficult part of the repair. 5 screws had to be removed before changing out the switch and installing the new part. The repair proved successful after the washer filled with water and began agitating on its own.

FIRST, I went to the wrong web site, and thought based upon their diagnostics that I had a sock stuck in the pump. The machine would run, but not pump nor spin. Further, I had no idea precisely how to get at the pump, which is located at the front to the machine. Bailed 20+ gallons of water, and a full load of wet clothes out, took the machine apart from the back (precisely opposite to the correct approach) and took the pump out--no socks, pump OK. Searched with the machine Model # and found Parts Select, and its help video, statistical analysis, and feedback. I jumped the broken switch, so I could wash clothes (a cheap piece of whirlpool engineering dedicated to the appliance repair trade's pension plans, no doubt), put the machine back together, and ordered the part off the web site page with the repair video. Wrong part showed up two shipping days later, and after talking to customer service, they shipped the correct part, received two days later. Took me less than 20 minutes to install the right part. It took me at least 45 minutes to repack the wrong part, drive to the post office, and then I had to pay postage, and am still waiting to get my $37 back--oh, and I am out the money for the right part while waiting to get my money back for the wrong part, and paying postage to send it back--and for $4 gas to get back and forth to the post office, and spending my time correcting the part of the problem not of my making. Prolly net/net I will still be monetarily better off than having called an appliance repair guy and getting a stiff bill for the house call, and full retail for the part.This web site nailed the problem based upon my symptoms--and I ordered the part shown in the video that was identical to what was broken in my machine, but was initially sent something else. If I had found this web site first, I would have saved myself three hours of figuring out how to take the machine apart backwards without ruining anything in the process, and removing a pump that was fine. Putting it back together after viewing the video took 15 minutes.....the only down side of my experience was getting sent the wrong part (a lid switch that did not fit my machine, and did not match what the tech was removing in the video--one with the three long lead wires, ground wire) and paying postage and taking my time to repack and mail.

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.