MAT14CSAGW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

Parts Select is outstanding..They diagnosed the problem quickly..The part was sent within 2 days and we were washing laundry the 3rd afternoon...THANKS!!!!!!

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

FIRST, I went to the wrong web site, and thought based upon their diagnostics that I had a sock stuck in the pump. The machine would run, but not pump nor spin. Further, I had no idea precisely how to get at the pump, which is located at the front to the machine. Bailed 20+ gallons of water, and a full load of wet clothes out, took the machine apart from the back (precisely opposite to the correct approach) and took the pump out--no socks, pump OK. Searched with the machine Model # and found Parts Select, and its help video, statistical analysis, and feedback. I jumped the broken switch, so I could wash clothes (a cheap piece of whirlpool engineering dedicated to the appliance repair trade's pension plans, no doubt), put the machine back together, and ordered the part off the web site page with the repair video. Wrong part showed up two shipping days later, and after talking to customer service, they shipped the correct part, received two days later. Took me less than 20 minutes to install the right part. It took me at least 45 minutes to repack the wrong part, drive to the post office, and then I had to pay postage, and am still waiting to get my $37 back--oh, and I am out the money for the right part while waiting to get my money back for the wrong part, and paying postage to send it back--and for $4 gas to get back and forth to the post office, and spending my time correcting the part of the problem not of my making. Prolly net/net I will still be monetarily better off than having called an appliance repair guy and getting a stiff bill for the house call, and full retail for the part.This web site nailed the problem based upon my symptoms--and I ordered the part shown in the video that was identical to what was broken in my machine, but was initially sent something else. If I had found this web site first, I would have saved myself three hours of figuring out how to take the machine apart backwards without ruining anything in the process, and removing a pump that was fine. Putting it back together after viewing the video took 15 minutes.....the only down side of my experience was getting sent the wrong part (a lid switch that did not fit my machine, and did not match what the tech was removing in the video--one with the three long lead wires, ground wire) and paying postage and taking my time to repack and mail.

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.

Watched the video on your site for that part

very easy, pop up the top, unscrew 2 screws, unplug switch , plug in new switch replace 2 screws ,put top down,finished

removed the two screws that attached the top to the base. lean top back to access the lid switch. install the new one; best to have door open when installing. real easy repair that saved me mucho dinero.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

remove 2 screws holding top control panel down one on each side at the back / slide panel toward the front lay it over on the top of machine / unscrew ground wire /pop gray part off machine unplug wire // plug in new wire place part back into slot screw down ground wire / slide top control panel back on / replace screws on the back/ plug up and wash / it is so easy would have been faster but i had 3 kids helping to take out and put in the screws for me /

Replaced the lid switch by pulling the washer out enough to gain access. Not necessary to disconnect the waster hoses. Remove the two screws from the white plastic tabs on the rear of the control panel. Also remove the two screws connecting the control panel from the washer body. Lift the lid slightly and pull the control panel forward. Disconnect the pug into the lid switch and remove the switch. Replace the switch but remember to lift the lid while doing so. Lid has a small arm that must engage the switch correctly. Replace the control panel and reinstall the screws. Repair is very simple.